Bucatini all'Amatriciana with Crispy Guanciale and Pecorino Cream
A restaurant-style amatriciana: guanciale rendered low and slow until crisp, toasted cracked pepper, and pecorino melted into a silky cream with pasta water.
Method
Trim the rind and pepper crust off the guanciale, slice it 0.7 cm thick and cut into 1.5 cm batons. Crush the tomatoes by hand, picking out any hard cores, grate the pecorino very finely (a microplane is ideal) and coarsely crack the peppercorns with the flat of a knife or in a mortar.
Bring the water to the boil in a 20 cm pot over high heat, about , then add the salt.
Add in this stepWater for the pasta 2½ LCoarse salt (for the pasta water) 18 g
high heatToast the cracked pepper in a dry 26 cm frying pan over medium-low heat for until fragrant, then tip it into a small bowl. Put the guanciale into the same pan without oil and render it on the same heat for , turning now and then, until golden and crisp outside but still slightly chewy inside. Lift it out; if there is a lot of fat (enough to cover the base deeply), pour a little off.
Add in this stepBlack peppercorns ½ tspGuanciale (cured pork cheek) 100 g
medium-low heatTurn the heat up to medium-high heat, fry the chili flakes for 10 seconds, then pour in the wine and scrape up the browned bits; reduce for until the alcohol has cooked off.
Add in this stepChili flakes (peperoncino) 1 pinchDry white wine 50 ml
medium-high heatAdd the tomatoes and simmer over medium heat for , until the sauce is deep red, glossy and beads of red fat form at the edges. Set aside a third of the guanciale for the top and stir the rest back into the sauce.
Add in this stepGood canned whole peeled tomatoes (San Marzano type) 300 g
medium heatCook the bucatini in the boiling water for : lift them out 2 minutes before the packet time, because they finish cooking in the sauce.
Add in this stepBucatini (or thick spaghetti) 200 g
Make the pecorino cream: put most of the pecorino and half the toasted pepper in a bowl and whisk in pasta water a spoonful at a time (let it cool for a minute off the boil first) until you have a smooth cream like thick yogurt.
Add in this stepPecorino Romano 48 g
Move the bucatini into the sauce with a splash of pasta water and toss over medium-high heat for , keeping everything moving as they finish cooking. When the sauce clings to the pasta, turn off the heat, wait 30 seconds and quickly stir in the pecorino cream. Plate and top with the reserved crispy guanciale, the remaining pecorino and pepper.
Add in this stepPecorino Romano 12 g
medium-high heat
Cook's tip
Too-hot water makes the cheese cream seize into lumps; lukewarm water won't melt it. Aim for pasta water that is too hot to touch comfortably but no longer boiling. Rendering guanciale on high heat burns the outside before the fat melts, so keep the heat low and be patient.
Cooking it at camp
One burner handles the guanciale and sauce, but you need a second pot for the pasta. With a single burner, make the sauce first, set it aside and then boil the pasta. You can make the pecorino cream by stirring pasta water into the cheese in a mug with a fork.