Arancini al Ragù (Sicilian Cones)
The Sicilian classic: slow-simmered beef ragù and cheese wrapped in saffron rice, shaped into Catania-style cones and double-crumbed for a thick, crunchy shell.
Method
Chop the onion, carrot and celery very finely, about 3 mm. Heat the olive oil in a 20 cm pan over medium-low heat and cook the vegetables for , until soft and sweet-smelling.
Add in this stepOlive oil 1 tbspOnion ¼Carrot ¼Celery stalk ¼
medium-low heatTurn up to medium-high heat, add the beef and cook for , breaking it up with a spatula, until the moisture has gone and the meat is browned. Stir in the tomato paste for 1 minute, then pour in the wine and bubble until the alcohol smell has gone.
Add in this stepMinced beef 120 gTomato paste 1 tbspRed wine 50 ml
medium-high heatAdd the water and salt, turn down to low heat, set the lid ajar and simmer for , adding the peas for the last 5 minutes. The ragù must be thick with almost no liquid, or it will leak from the rice. Spread in a wide dish to cool.
Add in this stepWater 150 mlSalt ½ tspFrozen peas 40 g
low heatBring the stock and saffron to the boil in a 18 cm saucepan over high heat, add the rice, turn down to medium-low heat and cook for , stirring now and then, until the stock is absorbed and the grains cling together.
Add in this stepChicken stock 550 mlSaffron 1 pinchRisotto rice (Arborio or Carnaroli) 200 g
high heat→medium-low heatOff the heat, stir in the butter and Parmesan and spread the rice 2 cm thick on a tray. Cover it and the ragù and chill both for , until completely cold.
Add in this stepButter 20 gGrated Parmesan 40 g
Cut the cheese into 1 cm cubes. With wet hands, divide the rice into ≈4 × 190 g portions, cup one in your palm, add a spoonful of ragù and 2 or 3 cubes of cheese and close. Shape it into a cone, round at the base and pointed at the top, sealing every gap carefully.
Add in this stepCaciocavallo or low-moisture mozzarella 60 g
Whisk the flour and cold water into a batter as thick as cream. Coat each arancino in batter, then breadcrumbs, then repeat both for a thick shell. Chilling them for 15 minutes now makes them less likely to burst.
Add in this stepPlain flour 60 gCold water (for the batter) 100 mlFine breadcrumbs 110 g
Pour the oil into a 18 cm deep pot, no more than a third full, heat over medium-high heat to 175 °C, then turn down to medium heat to hold it at 170 to 175 °C. Lower the arancini in carefully with a ladle and fry 2 at a time for , rolling them, until deep golden brown. Stand them on a rack to drain, and wait 3 to 4 minutes before eating, as the centre is very hot.
Add in this stepOil for deep-frying 700 ml
medium-high heat→medium heat
Cook's tip
Make the ragù the day before: it tastes deeper and, being cold, is easier to wrap. Keep rolling the cones while frying, as the tips burn first if they stand still. A frying thermometer makes success far more likely.
Cooking it at camp
Skip deep-frying in a pot at the campsite. Shape and crumb them at home, freeze them and carry them in the cooler, then shallow-fry slowly in a cast-iron pan with 1 cm of oil over medium-low heat, turning often; from frozen they need longer to heat through. At home, deep-fry as above.