Anchovy-Stock Pear Gimjang Kimchi

Method

1. Remove the outer leaves, cut a slit in the base and tear each head in half by hand. In a 40 cm basin dissolve about a third of the salt in the water, dip the halves in, then sprinkle the rest of the salt between the leaves, mostly on the stems. Leave cut side up to salt for 6 h, swapping top and bottom every 2 hours. They are done when the thickest stem bends softly without snapping.

   Add in this stepNapa cabbage (whole heads) 2,400 gWater (for the brine) 2,000 mlCoarse sea salt 240 g

2. Rinse three times in cold water, set cut side down in a colander and drain thoroughly for 1 h. Water left in the leaves dilutes the paste and makes the kimchi bland.

3. Pull the heads and dark guts off the anchovies. Toast them in a dry 18 cm pot on medium heat for about 1 minute to drive off the fishy smell, then add the water and kombu. When it boils, lift out the kombu, turn down to medium-low heat and simmer for 12 min, then strain through a fine sieve. About two thirds of the liquid should remain.

   Add in this stepDried anchovies (large, for stock) 20 gKombu (dried kelp) 10 gWater (for the stock) 800 ml

   medium heat→medium-low heat

4. When the stock is lukewarm, whisk in the rice flour until there are no lumps. Return to medium heat and cook, stirring constantly, for 5 min, until thick and translucent, then let it cool completely.

   Add in this stepGlutinous (sweet) rice flour 3 tbsp

   medium heat

5. Peel the pear and onion, cut them into chunks and blend until very smooth with the garlic, ginger, saeujeot and fish sauce. Stir this into the cooled porridge with the gochugaru and leave for 30 min; fully swollen chili flakes give a brighter colour and cling better to the leaves.

   Add in this stepAsian pear 200 gOnion 120 gGarlic cloves 80 gGinger 20 gSaeujeot (salted fermented shrimp) 2 tbspAnchovy fish sauce 80 mlGochugaru (half coarse, half fine if you can) 100 g

6. Cut the radish into fine 5 cm matchsticks and the garlic chives and scallions into 4 cm lengths. Toss the radish into the paste first until red, then fold in the chives and scallions last and lightly, so they don't bruise and turn grassy.

   Add in this stepKorean radish (mu) or daikon 600 gGarlic chives 80 gThin scallions 80 g

7. Wearing gloves, work from the outer leaves in, packing filling generously on each stem. Fold each half, wrap it in its outer leaf and press the bundles cut side up into a clean 3 L container with no gaps; cover with outer leaves to keep the air out. Swirl 3 to 4 tablespoons of water around the empty mixing bowl and pour it down the sides of the container.

8. Leave at room temperature (about 20 °C) for 12 h to start fermentation, then move it to the coldest part of the fridge (1 to 4 °C) to ripen slowly. After 2 to 3 weeks it tastes clean and refreshing, with the sweetness of pear and the savoury depth of the stock.