Short Rib and Shank Quesabirria Tacos
Tijuana-style quesabirria: bone-in short rib and shank oven-braised for hours in a toasted-spice chile adobo, fried with melting cheese and served with a reduced consomé.
Method
Heat the oven to 160 °C. Pat the meat dry and season it with half the salt. Heat the oil in a heavy, lidded, ovenproof 20 cm · 1× pot (the number after · is how many batches) over medium-high heat and sear the meat for , until each side has a dark brown crust, then lift it out. Leave the browned bits in the pot. Wash hands and board after handling raw meat.
Add in this stepBone-in beef short ribs 450 gBone-in beef shank, cross-cut 300 gSalt ¾ tspVegetable oil 1½ tbsp
medium-high heatRemove the stems and seeds from the chiles. Toast them in a dry pan over medium heat for , pressing them down, and lift them out; lower the heat to medium-low heat and toast the cumin, coriander, allspice and cloves for , until fragrant (burnt spices taste bitter). Put chiles and spices in a bowl and soak them in part of the stock, heated until steaming.
Add in this stepDried guajillo chiles 5Dried ancho chiles 2Dried chipotle chile (or tinned chipotle) 1Cumin seeds ½ tspCoriander seeds ½ tspWhole allspice berries 3Whole cloves 2Beef stock 400 ml
medium heat→medium-low heatTurn the same pan to medium-high heat and roast the tomatoes, onion and unpeeled garlic for , turning, until charred in patches.
Add in this stepTomatoes 150 gOnion (medium) ½Garlic cloves 5
medium-high heatPeel the garlic. Blend the soaked chiles and spices with their stock, the roasted vegetables, vinegar, oregano and the rest of the salt until very smooth, then press through a fine sieve. Pour off all but 1 tablespoon of fat from the pot, set it over medium heat, pour in the adobo carefully (it spits) and cook for , stirring, until darker and thicker.
Add in this stepApple cider vinegar 1½ tbspDried oregano (Mexican if possible) ¾ tspSalt ¾ tsp
medium heatReturn the meat, add the remaining stock, the cinnamon and bay so the meat is almost covered, and bring to a simmer. Cover and braise in the oven at 160 °C for , until the bones slide out and the meat falls apart at the touch of a fork.
Add in this stepBeef stock 600 mlCinnamon stick (5 cm piece) ½Bay leaves 1
ovenLift out the meat, discard the bones and gristle and shred it. Skim the red fat from the broth into a bowl. Reduce the broth over medium-high heat for , until it lightly coats a spoon, then taste for salt. Mix a ladle of broth into the shredded meat to keep it juicy.
medium-high heatDip a tortilla in the red fat on both sides and lay it in a 26 cm · 2× pan (the number after · is how many batches) heated over medium heat. Scatter cheese over it first; once it starts melting, add meat to one half, fold and fry for about 2 minutes per side, in total, until red and crisp outside with stretchy cheese inside.
Add in this stepCorn tortillas (15 cm) 6Oaxaca cheese (or low-moisture mozzarella) 120 g
medium heatServe the consomé in cups topped with onion and coriander, with the tacos, radishes, more onion and coriander and lime wedges. Dunk the tacos as you eat.
Add in this stepWhite onion, finely chopped ¼Fresh coriander (cilantro), chopped 3 tbspLimes 1Radishes, thinly sliced 1
Cook's tip
If you can, braise a day ahead and chill: the fat sets on top for clean skimming, and that solid red fat is perfect for frying the tacos. Any cheese that runs into the pan and crisps (the costra) is a treat, so fry it along with the taco.
Cooking it at camp
Braise at home and pack the meat and consomé separately in sealed containers in the cooler. At camp, bring the consomé to a rolling boil and fry the tacos on a cast-iron griddle over charcoal; the cheese melts and picks up a lovely smokiness.