Durban Lamb Bunny with Fresh-Ground Masala
The Durban curry-house classic: bone-in lamb slow-simmered in a masala you toast and grind yourself, served in an oven-toasted, crisp-walled loaf.
Method
Make the masala: put the coriander seeds, cumin, fennel, dried chillies, peppercorns and cloves in a dry 18 cm frying pan over medium-low heat and toast for , shaking the pan, until they smell toasty and turn a shade darker; if they smoke, they have burnt. Tip them onto a plate to cool, then grind to a fine powder in a spice grinder or mortar and mix in the chilli powder and turmeric.
Add in this stepCoriander seeds 1½ tspCumin seeds ¾ tspFennel seeds ½ tspDried red chillies 2Black peppercorns ½ tspCloves 3Kashmiri chilli powder 1½ tspGround turmeric ½ tsp
medium-low heatPat the lamb very dry with kitchen paper and season with half the salt. Heat the ghee for this step in a heavy pot over medium-high heat. Pot size and number of batches: 22 cm ×1. Lay the lamb in a single layer with space between the pieces and sear for per batch, turning once, until deeply browned on two sides. Lift out onto a plate, keeping all the juices.
Add in this stepBone-in lamb shoulder (or neck), in 4 cm pieces 600 gSalt 0.6 tspGhee 1¼ tbsp
medium-high heatLower to medium heat and add the rest of the ghee with the cinnamon, star anise, cardamom and curry leaves; let them sizzle for a few seconds. Add the onions and cook for , scraping up the browned bits from the bottom, until deep golden brown. This colour is the backbone of the gravy, so be patient.
Add in this stepGhee ¾ tbspCinnamon stick (3 cm piece) 1Star anise 1Green cardamom pods 3Fresh curry leaves 10Onions, thinly sliced 1½
medium heatTurn to medium-low heat, add the garlic and ginger and cook for 30 seconds, then add all the ground masala with 3 tablespoons of water and stir for , until the raw spice smell is gone and the water has evaporated. Add the tomatoes and cook for , until thick and the oil separates at the edges.
Add in this stepGarlic cloves, crushed 4Fresh ginger, grated 15 gRipe tomatoes, grated 1½
medium-low heatReturn the lamb and its juices to the pot and stir to coat, then add the hot water and the remaining salt. Bring to a boil over high heat, lower to low heat, cover and simmer gently for , stirring every 15 minutes, until the meat is tender and starts to come away from the bone.
Add in this stepHot water 700 mlSalt 0.6 tsp
high heat→low heatAdd the potatoes, push them under the gravy and simmer, partly covered, on medium-low heat for , until a knife slides through them and the gravy is thick and glossy enough to coat the back of a spoon. Remove the cinnamon and star anise and taste for salt.
Add in this stepWaxy potatoes, halved (about 4 cm pieces) 240 g
medium-low heatMeanwhile, quarter the loaf and hollow each quarter, leaving walls and a base about 1.5 cm thick; keep the scooped-out bread as the lid. Toast the hollow quarters and lids in the oven at 200 °C for , until the inside is dry and lightly crisp so the walls stay firm under the gravy. Fill with the hot curry, top with the coriander and the lid, and serve at once.
Add in this stepUnsliced white sandwich loaf (one quarter per person) 2Fresh coriander, chopped 5 g
oven
Cook's tip
Bone-in shoulder or neck gives a far richer gravy than boneless meat; warn diners about small bones. The curry tastes even better the next day, so you can make it ahead and reheat it gently before filling. Toast the bread just before serving.
Cooking it at camp
Possible but slow: the lamb needs over an hour of gentle simmering, which uses a lot of gas. Grind the masala at home, keep the raw lamb in a well-iced cooler below 5 °C, and use a heavy pot on a low flame or a cast-iron pot over embers. Skip the oven and toast the hollowed bread on the grill instead.