Cacio e Pepe Risottata with Pecorino Cream

Method

1. Grate the pecorino as finely as possible. Crack the peppercorns in a mortar, then shake them through a fine sieve: the fine dust will flavour the cheese cream, and the coarse pieces are for toasting and finishing.

2. Make the pecorino cream: put most of the cheese and the fine pepper dust in a bowl, add the cold water a little at a time and mash and whisk with a fork (or a stick blender) into a smooth, thick cream like Greek yogurt. Cold water lets the cheese absorb moisture without melting, so it can't clump later. Keep it at room temperature.

   Add in this stepPecorino Romano, very finely grated 77 gCold water 55 mlWhole black peppercorns ¼ tsp

3. Bring the water to a boil in a small 18 cm pot over high heat and add the salt. Very little water is the secret here: it quickly turns cloudy with starch, and that starch is what will emulsify the sauce.

   Add in this stepWater for the pasta 1½ LSalt for the pasta water 5 g

   high heat

4. In a wide 26 cm frying pan, toast most of the coarse pepper over medium-low heat for 1 min, until fragrant. Add 2 ladles of the boiling pasta water and let it simmer gently, so the pepper flavours the liquid.

   Add in this stepWhole black peppercorns 1 tsp

   medium-low heat

5. Add the pasta to the pot and cook over high heat for 5 min, only about half the packet time. It should still be quite firm and bendy.

   Add in this stepTonnarelli or thick spaghetti (spaghettoni) 200 g

   high heat

6. Move the pasta with tongs into the pepper pan and finish cooking it over medium heat for 5 min like a risotto: keep tossing and add a ladle of pasta water whenever the pan looks dry. Stop when the pasta is al dente and the liquid has reduced to a few spoonfuls of syrupy, starchy sauce.

   medium heat

7. Take the pan off the heat and let it cool for 1 min, tossing once or twice, so it drops to about 60–65 °C (the pasta should feel very warm but not scalding). Add the pecorino cream in two additions, tossing and shaking the pan hard after each, and loosen with a spoonful of pasta water if needed, until the sauce is glossy and flowing and coats every strand without strings.

8. Twirl the pasta into nests on warm plates with tongs, then finish with the remaining pecorino and the toasted coarse pepper. Serve immediately.

   Add in this stepPecorino Romano, very finely grated 14 gWhole black peppercorns ¼ tsp