Pindi Chole

Method

1. Rinse the dried chickpeas 2 or 3 times, then cover them with at least three times their volume of cold water and soak for 8 h. They double in size, so use a big bowl. They are ready when one splits in half easily under your fingers.

   Add in this stepDried chickpeas 200 g

2. Drain the chickpeas and put them in a 20 cm pot with the boiling water, the tea bag (tie the string to the handle), black cardamom, cinnamon, cloves, bay leaves, baking soda and salt. Bring to a boil over high heat, skim off the foam, then reduce to low heat, set the lid ajar and simmer for 1 h 5 min. They are done when a chickpea squashes effortlessly between your thumb and finger. The tea stains them a deep brown, and the baking soda softens the skins.

   Add in this stepWater for boiling 1,000 mlBlack tea bag 1Baking soda 1 pinchBlack cardamom pods 1Cinnamon stick (5 cm) 1Cloves 3Bay leaves 1Salt (for the boiling water) ¾ tsp

   high heat→low heat

3. While they cook, toast the coriander seeds, cumin seeds, peppercorns and dried chillies in a dry pan over medium-low heat for 2 min 30 sec, shaking the pan. When the coriander is a shade darker and smells nutty, tip everything onto a plate to cool, then grind it finely with the garam masala in a spice grinder or mortar. This is your chole masala.

   Add in this stepCoriander seeds 1 tbspCumin seeds 1 tspBlack peppercorns ½ tspDried red chillies 1Garam masala 1 tsp

   medium-low heat

4. Melt the ghee in a wide 24 cm pan and fry the very finely chopped onion over medium heat for 12 min. Take it past golden to a deep chestnut brown: that gives pindi chole its dark colour and sweetness. If it sticks, deglaze with a spoonful of the chickpea cooking water.

   Add in this stepGhee 2½ tbspOnion (medium) 1

   medium heat

5. Add the grated ginger and garlic and fry for 1 min until the raw smell goes, then add the grated tomatoes, Kashmiri chilli, salt and half the chole masala. Keep the heat at medium heat and cook for 7 min, until the tomato liquid has evaporated into a thick paste and the ghee separates at the edges.

   Add in this stepGinger (for paste) 15 gGarlic cloves 4Tomatoes (medium) 1½Kashmiri chilli powder 1 tspSalt (for the sauce) ½ tsp

   medium heat

6. Fish the tea bag and whole spices out of the chickpeas, then add the chickpeas to the pan with just enough of their cooking water to barely cover them; keep the rest aside. Add the remaining chole masala, the kasuri methi rubbed between your palms and the pomegranate molasses, and simmer over medium-low heat for 15 min. Mash a few spoonfuls as you go, until the gravy clings thickly to the chickpeas: pindi chole is meant to be almost dry.

   Add in this stepKasuri methi (dried fenugreek leaves) 1 tspPomegranate molasses 1 tsp

   medium-low heat

7. Heat the tadka ghee in a small pan over medium heat for 1 min, then add the ginger julienne and slit green chillies and let them sizzle until the ginger edges turn crisp. Pour it straight over the chole while it is still crackling, and top with thin red onion rings and coriander. Pat the ginger and chillies completely dry first: water makes hot ghee spit.

   Add in this stepGhee (for the tadka) 1 tbspGinger (for julienne) 10 gGreen chillies 2Red onion ½Fresh coriander 10 g

   medium heat