Tempered Dark Dubai Bar with Homemade Pistachio Paste
A chocolatier-style Dubai bar: home-roasted pistachio paste and brown-butter kataifi in a glossy tempered dark chocolate shell that snaps cleanly.
Method
Preheat the oven to 160 °C, spread the pistachios on a tray in one layer and roast for . Take them out when they smell nutty and a split nut is pale cream inside. Chop the decorating pistachios separately, unroasted.
Add in this stepShelled unsalted pistachios 70 g
Put the warm pistachios in a small food processor and blend for , stopping every minute to scrape down the sides. They go from powder to a loose, oily paste. Melt the white chocolate in the microwave in 20-second bursts, add it with the icing sugar, oil and salt, and blend for 30 seconds more into a cream like peanut butter.
Add in this stepWhite chocolate 20 gIcing sugar 10 gGrapeseed oil (or any neutral oil) 1 tspSalt 1 pinch
Cut the kataifi into 1 cm lengths with scissors. Melt the butter in a 20 cm pan; when the foam settles, brown specks form on the bottom and it smells nutty, add the kataifi and fry over medium-low heat for , stirring constantly. When it is deep golden and sounds crisp, spread it on a plate to cool completely.
Add in this stepKataifi (shredded filo pastry, frozen) 45 gUnsalted butter 15 g
medium-low heatMix the cooled kataifi with the pistachio cream and tahini to make the filling. It should hold together when squeezed in your hand.
Add in this stepTahini (sesame paste) 1 tsp
Temper the chocolate. Finely chop it; put ⅔ in a bowl over a pan of water and keep ⅓ aside. Keep the water from touching the bowl and melt over low heat for , stirring, to 45–50°C. Take the bowl off the heat, add the remaining ⅓ and stir until it cools to 31–32°C (29–30°C for milk chocolate). Test a little on a knife tip: if it sets glossy within 5 minutes at room temperature, it is tempered.
Add in this stepDark chocolate couverture (55–70% cocoa) 150 g
low heatFill 1 chocolate bar mould(s) to the top with tempered chocolate and tap the sides to release air bubbles. Turn the mould over to drain the excess back into the bowl, leaving a thin shell, scrape the top clean and chill for 10 minutes.
Press in the filling firmly, stopping 2 mm below the rim. Rewarm the leftover chocolate over the water for a few seconds to 31–32°C, pour it over to seal, scrape the top and chill for 25 minutes. Turn out the bar, then stick on the chopped pistachios and flaky salt with a dab of melted chocolate. Cut with a warm knife for a clean edge.
Add in this stepChopped pistachios (to decorate) 5 gFlaky sea salt 1 pinch
Cook's tip
Even one drop of water makes chocolate seize, so use completely dry tools. Well-tempered chocolate pops out of the mould by itself; badly tempered chocolate looks streaky and sticks. If that happens, melt it back to 45°C and start again.
Cooking it at camp
Tempering and setting are not practical at a campsite. Make the bars at home and carry them in the cool box. Tempered chocolate copes with warmth better than untempered, but keep it out of direct sun.