Silky Amok with Toasted Kroeung and Coconut Cream

Method

1. Cut the fish into pieces 1 cm thick and 4 cm long, sprinkle evenly with the salt and refrigerate for 15 min. The salt firms the flesh so it stays plump and doesn't break up when steamed. Meanwhile, seed the dried chillies and soak them in hot water. Pat the cured fish very dry with kitchen paper.

   Add in this stepFirm white fish fillet (catfish, cod or sea bass), skinless and boneless 260 gSalt (for curing the fish) ½ tsp

2. Thinly slice the tender white part of the lemongrass with the galangal, fresh turmeric (wear gloves to avoid yellow fingers), garlic and shallots. Strip the rib from half the lime leaves and shred them. Pound everything with the soaked chillies in a mortar for 12 min into a very fine kroeung with no fibres left. This step decides most of the flavour.

   Add in this stepLemongrass stalks 2Galangal 12 gFresh turmeric root 15 gMakrut lime leaves 2½Garlic cloves 3Small shallots 2Large mild dried red chillies 1

3. Heat part of the coconut cream in a 18 cm pan on medium-low heat until it bubbles and the oil just starts to separate, then add the kroeung and stir constantly for 5 min. It is ready when the raw smell is gone, it smells rich and toasty and reddish oil shows at the edges. Stir in the shrimp paste for the last 30 seconds, take off the heat and let it cool; if it is hot when it meets the egg, the egg will scramble.

   Add in this stepCoconut cream 68 mlShrimp paste ½ tsp

   medium-low heat

4. Whisk the cooled paste with the coconut milk, egg, fish sauce and palm sugar. Add the fish and stir in one direction for 2 min until slightly thickened. Don't taste the mixture once it contains raw egg: taste a tiny dab of the toasted paste before mixing and adjust the balance with fish sauce.

   Add in this stepCoconut milk 230 mlEgg 1Fish sauce 3 tspPalm sugar 2 tsp

5. Line the banana-leaf cups (or ramekins) with the greens and fill them three-quarters full. When the water in a 24 cm steamer is boiling, put the cups in, wrap the lid in a tea towel so drips don't fall on the custard, and steam on medium heat for 18 min. A lower heat and longer time than the basic version are the secret to the silky texture. It is done when the centre springs back and reads 70 °C or more.

   Add in this stepBanana leaf (25 cm squares, 2 per cup) or ramekins 4Noni leaves or baby spinach 60 g

   medium heat

6. While it steams, whisk the rest of the coconut cream with the rice flour and topping salt in a small pan, then stir over low heat for 3 min until it thickens enough to coat the back of a spoon. Spoon it over the steamed amok and top with the remaining lime leaves, shredded hair-thin, and slivers of red chilli.

   Add in this stepCoconut cream 102 mlRice flour or cornstarch ½ tspSalt (for the topping) 1 pinchMakrut lime leaves 2½Fresh red chilli 1

   low heat