Bergen Fish Soup (Bergensk Fiskesuppe) with Homemade Stock
The classic of Bergen: a clear stock made from white fish bones, thickened with egg yolks and sour cream and balanced with a gentle sweet-sour touch of vinegar and sugar.
Method
Rinse the fish bones and heads under cold running water until no blood remains; blood and gills make stock bitter and cloudy. Put them in a 20 cm pot with the cold water, roughly chopped onion, wine, bay leaves and parsley stalks, bring to the boil on medium-high heat (about ) and skim off the grey foam with a ladle as it rises.
Add in this stepWhite fish bones and heads (cod or similar), gills removed 500 gCold water 900 mlOnion ½Dry white wine 60 mlBay leaves 1Parsley stalks 3
medium-high heatTurn down to low heat so the surface just trembles and simmer for . Boiling hard or cooking for more than 30 minutes makes the stock cloudy and fishy. Strain through a fine sieve lined with a clean cloth and keep the clear stock.
low heatCut the carrot and celeriac into fine 4 cm matchsticks and thinly slice and rinse the leek. Melt the butter in a 18 cm pot, add the vegetables and cook on medium-low heat for until wilted but not coloured.
Add in this stepButter 25 gCarrot 80 gCeleriac (or celery sticks) 60 gLeek 60 g
medium-low heatSprinkle in the flour and stir on medium-low heat for , then add the hot stock a ladle at a time, whisking smooth after each one. Turn down to low heat and simmer for to cook out the taste of raw flour.
Add in this stepPlain (all-purpose) flour 20 g
medium-low heat→low heatWhisk the egg yolks, sour cream and cream in a bowl, then whisk in a ladle of the hot soup to warm the mixture. Pour it into the pot, stirring constantly, and heat on low heat for until slightly thickened. Never let it boil, or the yolks will scramble. Season with the vinegar, sugar, salt and white pepper a little at a time, tasting until the sweet and sour notes are subtle and balanced.
Add in this stepEgg yolks (number of eggs) 1Sour cream 60 gDouble (heavy) cream 80 mlWhite wine vinegar 1 tspSugar 1 tspSalt to tasteWhite pepper to taste
low heatAdd the cod and salmon cut into 3 cm chunks and poach on low heat for , without letting the soup boil; add the prawns for the last minute to warm through. The fish is ready when it is opaque all the way through and flakes apart (63 °C in the centre).
Add in this stepSkinless cod fillet 160 gSkinless salmon fillet 120 gCooked peeled prawns 60 g
low heatTurn off the heat, scatter over the chives and serve in warm bowls, ladling from the bottom of the pot so the fish stays in whole pieces.
Add in this stepChives, finely chopped 2 tbsp
Cook's tip
Use only white fish bones; salmon or mackerel frames make a greasy, strong stock. Fishmongers will often give you bones cheaply if you ask. Once the liaison is in, keep the heat low throughout, as boiling splits the yolks; reheat leftovers gently too, never to a boil.
Cooking it at camp
Make the stock at home, cool it and carry it in a bottle in the cooler; at camp the soup then takes about 30 minutes. If your stove won't hold a really low flame, take the pot off the heat before adding the liaison and let the residual heat thicken it. Keep fish and dairy below 4 °C.