Slow-poached Hainanese chicken rice
Hawker-master style: a rich wing stock first, chicken legs held at 80 °C until silky, and rice fried in home-rendered chicken fat with shallots.
Method
Chop the chicken skin and fat trimmings small, put them in a cold small pan and render slowly over medium-low heat for . When the bits are golden and crisp and clear fat has pooled, strain: keep the fat for the rice and the crackling for garnish.
Add in this stepChicken skin and fat trimmings 60 g
medium-low heatCut the wings at the joints into 2–3 pieces and rinse in cold water. Put them in a 20 cm · 2 L pot with water, the stock portion of the ginger (sliced), the halved spring onions and the salt for this step and bring to the boil over high heat. Skim off the foam, lower to medium-low heat and simmer for for a flavourful stock. Meanwhile take the chicken legs out of the fridge to lose their chill.
Add in this stepChicken wings or backs (for stock) 350 gFresh ginger 27 gSpring onions 1½Salt 1 tsp
high heat→medium-low heatRub the legs with the salt for this step. Holding the end of the bone, dip each leg into the boiling stock for 5 seconds and lift it out, three times; this tightens the skin. Submerge the legs completely, put a thermometer in the pot and adjust the heat around low heat to hold about 80 °C for . When the thickest part next to the bone reaches 75 °C, lift them into iced water for . Remove the wings and strain the stock; keep it warm.
Add in this stepWhole chicken legs, bone-in, skin-on (about 300 g each) 2Salt ½ tsp
low heatRinse the rice until the water runs almost clear and drain for 10 minutes. Thinly slice the shallots, chop two thirds of the garlic and grate the rice portion of the ginger. Heat the chicken fat from step 1 in a 16 cm pot over medium-low heat and fry the shallots, garlic and ginger for until fragrant and the shallots turn translucent, then add the rice and stir for until glossy.
Add in this stepJasmine rice 180 gShallots 1Garlic cloves 3.6Fresh ginger 9 g
medium-low heatAdd 270 ml of warm stock, the salt for this step and the knotted pandan. Bring to the boil over high heat, stir once, cover and lower to low heat for ; turn off the heat and leave covered for . Remove the pandan and fluff the rice.
Add in this stepSalt ½ tspPandan leaves 1
high heat→low heatChilli sauce: blend the red and bird's eye chillies, the remaining garlic, a third of the remaining ginger, the lime juice, the sugar and salt for this step and 3 tbsp warm stock into a slightly coarse sauce. Ginger sauce: finely grate the rest of the ginger and finely slice the spring onions into a dry heatproof bowl. Heat the oil in a small pan over medium heat for to about 170 °C (a piece of spring onion sizzles at once) and pour it slowly over. It splutters, so keep your face back.
Add in this stepRed chillies 3Bird's eye chillies 1Garlic cloves 2.4Fresh ginger 54 gLime (or calamansi) 1Sugar 1¼ tspSalt ½ tspNeutral oil 2 tbspSpring onions 1½
medium heatIn a small pan, simmer the light soy sauce, oyster sauce, remaining sugar and 4 tbsp stock over medium-low heat for until lightly glossy, then take off the heat and stir in the sesame oil and white pepper. Debone the chicken and cut it into 2 cm slices. Arrange with the rice, diagonally sliced cucumber and coriander, spoon over the dressing and top with the crackling; serve with the chilli sauce, ginger sauce, dark soy sauce and a bowl of stock.
Add in this stepLight soy sauce 1½ tbspOyster sauce 1½ tspSugar ¾ tspToasted sesame oil 1½ tspGround white pepper 1 pinchThick sweet dark soy sauce 2 tspCucumber ½Fresh coriander (cilantro) to taste
medium-low heat
Cook's tip
Without a thermometer, about 80 °C looks like tiny bubbles forming on the bottom of the pot without rising. Make extra stock and chicken fat and freeze them; next time goes much faster. Don't leave the chicken in the iced water too long or the meat itself goes cold. The chilli sauce keeps 3 days in the fridge.
Cooking it at camp
Bring the stock, chicken fat and sauces ready-made in jars and at camp you only need to poach the chicken and cook the rice. Holding 80 °C is hard in wind, so shield the burner, keep the lid on and check the thermometer often. Keep raw chicken below 4 °C and cook it on the first day.