Hot and Sour Soup
A thick, warming Chinese soup of shiitake, wood ear, tofu and pork, sharpened with black vinegar and the slow heat of white pepper.
Method
Soak the dried shiitake and wood ear in warm water for . Cut the stems off the shiitake and slice the caps into thin strips; trim the hard base from the wood ear and shred it finely. Wood ear swells to 5–6 times its size, so resist adding more.
Add in this stepDried shiitake mushrooms 3Dried wood ear mushrooms 5 g
Cut the pork along the grain into matchsticks about 5 cm long and 0.5 cm thick, then mix with the soy sauce and cornstarch listed here; the starchy coating keeps the meat tender. Cut the tofu and bamboo shoots into matchsticks of the same size, and rinse the bamboo under cold water to remove the canned taste.
Add in this stepPork shoulder or loin 80 gLight soy sauce 1 tspCornstarch 0.6 tbsp
Put the stock, shiitake, wood ear and bamboo shoots in a 18 cm pot and bring to the boil on high heat, about . Once it boils, turn down to medium-low heat and simmer for to draw out the mushroom flavour.
Add in this stepChicken stock 600 mlBamboo shoots (canned or vacuum-packed) 60 g
high heat→medium-low heatDrop in the pork a few strands at a time and separate them straight away with chopsticks. Cook on medium heat for , until the meat is white with no pink left. Add the tofu, both soy sauces and the sugar, then season with salt. Tofu breaks easily, so push it gently with the ladle rather than stirring hard.
Add in this stepFirm tofu 120 gLight soy sauce 3 tspDark soy sauce 1 tspSugar ½ tspSalt to taste
medium heatMix the cornstarch and water into a smooth slurry (it settles quickly, so stir again just before using). Stir the soup slowly in one direction while pouring in the slurry in a thin stream, then cook on medium heat for , until the soup turns glossy and is thick enough to thinly coat the back of a spoon.
Add in this stepCornstarch 1.9 tbspWater (for the slurry) 4 tbsp
medium heatTurn the heat down to low heat and beat the egg well. Stir the soup slowly in one direction to make a gentle whirlpool, then drizzle in the egg in a thin stream, letting it run down a chopstick. Leave it for about 10 seconds before stirring gently, so the egg sets into delicate ribbons.
Add in this stepEgg 1
low heatTurn off the heat, stir in the black vinegar, white pepper and sesame oil, then taste and add more vinegar or pepper if you like. Adding vinegar off the heat keeps its aroma. Ladle into bowls, scatter with sliced spring onions and serve piping hot.
Add in this stepChinese black vinegar (Chinkiang) 3 tbspGround white pepper ¾ tspToasted sesame oil 1 tspSpring onions 1
Cook's tip
The sourness comes from black vinegar and the heat from white pepper, not chilli. Without black vinegar, use two-thirds the amount of rice vinegar plus an extra dash of dark soy sauce for colour. If the soup gets too thick, loosen it with a little hot stock or water.
Cooking it at camp
Soak the mushrooms and cut everything at home, pack it in zip bags in the cooler, and at camp it takes one burner, one pot and 15 minutes. Wind weakens the flame, so make sure the soup really boils after adding the slurry, and cook the pork straight from the cooler.