Tiffin-House Idli with Fresh-Roasted Sambar

Method

1. Soak the rice for 5 hours, and the urad dal with the fenugreek separately for 5 hours; put the poha on top of the rice 30 minutes before grinding. Grind the urad dal for 8 min, adding ice-cold water a little at a time, until white and fluffy like foam. A spoonful dropped into water should float: that means there is enough air in it. Grind the rice and poha to a slightly gritty texture like fine semolina and combine. Add the salt, mix by hand for 2 minutes (the warmth of your hand helps fermentation) and leave in a warm place for 10 to 12 hours, until doubled.

   Add in this stepRice (non-glutinous, ideally parboiled idli rice) 150 gUrad dal (skinned split black gram) 50 gFenugreek seeds (for the batter) ¼ tspThick poha (flattened rice) 15 gSalt (for the batter) ¾ tsp

2. Rinse the toor dal until the water runs clear and put it in a 18 cm pot with one third of the sambar water and the turmeric. Bring to the boil over high heat, skim off the foam, then turn down to medium-low heat, half-cover and cook for 28 min. Add a splash of water if it gets dry. It is done when the grains have completely collapsed and mash to a purée under a ladle. Whisk until smooth.

   Add in this stepToor dal (split pigeon peas; red lentils also work) 60 gWater (for the sambar) 182 mlGround turmeric 1 pinch

   high heat→medium-low heat

3. Heat the roasting oil in a small pan over medium-low heat, add the chana dal, coriander seeds, dried chilies, fenugreek and cumin and stir constantly for 3 min, until the chana dal is golden and smells nutty. Add the coconut, stir for 30 seconds more and take off the heat. Let it cool, then blend with 3 to 4 tablespoons of water to a smooth sambar masala paste.

   Add in this stepCooking oil (for roasting the spices) ½ tspChana dal (for the spice mix) 1 tspCoriander seeds 2 tspDried red chilies 2Fenugreek seeds (for the spice mix) 1 pinchCumin seeds ½ tspGrated coconut 2 tbsp

   medium-low heat

4. In another 18 cm pot, combine the rest of the sambar water, the tamarind paste, shallots, carrot, tomato, salt and jaggery. Boil over medium heat for 10 min, until a knife slips easily into the carrot and the raw, sharp edge of the tamarind has mellowed.

   Add in this stepWater (for the sambar) 369 mlTamarind paste 2 tspSmall shallots (peeled, whole) 5Carrot (2 cm chunks) 60 gTomato (quartered) 1Salt (for the sambar) ¾ tspJaggery (or brown sugar) 1 tsp

   medium heat

5. Stir in the mashed dal and the masala paste and simmer over medium-low heat for 5 min. As soon as it froths gently at the edges it is ready; don't let it boil hard. It should be thick but pourable from a ladle; add hot water if it is too thick.

   medium-low heat

6. Pour 3 cm of water into a steamer wide enough for your idli stand and heat over high heat for 5 min until steaming well. Without stirring the batter, spoon it from the top into the greased moulds, filling them ¾ full, cover and steam over medium heat. This amount is steamed in 1 batch(es) and takes 12 min in total. When a skewer comes out clean, rest them for 2 minutes and lift them out with a wet spoon.

   Add in this stepCooking oil (for greasing the moulds) 1 tsp

   high heat→medium heat

7. Heat the ghee in a small pan over medium heat and add the mustard seeds. When they pop, add the asafoetida and curry leaves, fry for 1 min and pour straight into the sambar.

   Add in this stepGhee (for tempering) 1½ tspMustard seeds ½ tspAsafoetida (hing) 1 pinchCurry leaves 8

   medium heat

8. Put the hot idli in deep bowls, ladle plenty of sambar over them, drizzle with a thread of ghee and scatter with coriander. You can also serve the sambar on the side for dipping.

   Add in this stepGhee (to finish) 2 tspChopped coriander leaves 1 tbsp