Prawn-Head Stock Curry Laksa
Hawker-style laksa with deep sea flavour: a stock from roasted prawn heads and shells meets a paste of freshly toasted, hand-ground whole spices.
Method
Halve the dried chilies and shake out the seeds, then soak them and the dried shrimp in separate bowls of hot water for 15 minutes. Twist the heads off the prawns and peel them, leaving the tails on; slit the backs shallowly and pull out the dark vein. Keep all heads and shells. Thinly slice the pale part of the lemongrass and roughly chop the shallots, garlic, ginger and fresh chilies.
Add in this stepDried red chilies 8Dried shrimp 10 gWhole raw prawns, heads on (large) 12
Toast the coriander and cumin seeds in a dry 18 cm pan over medium-low heat for , shaking the pan, until they smell nutty and darken a shade. Tip them out and grind finely in a mortar or spice grinder. Wrap the shrimp paste flat in foil and toast it in the same pan for 30 seconds on each side.
Add in this stepWhole coriander seeds 1½ tspWhole cumin seeds ¾ tspShrimp paste (belacan) 1 tsp
medium-low heatHeat 1 tbsp oil in a 20 cm pot and fry the prawn heads and shells over medium-high heat for , pressing the heads hard with a spatula until orange juices and oil run out and it smells toasty. Add the water and chicken thighs and bring to a boil. Skim off the foam, lower to medium-low heat and simmer for , then strain through a sieve, pressing the shells to squeeze out every drop. Shred the chicken meat coarsely and discard the bones and skin.
Add in this stepCooking oil 1 tbspWater 1,300 mlBone-in chicken thighs, skin on 300 g
medium-high heat→medium-low heatSqueeze the soaked chilies and dried shrimp dry and put them in a blender with the shallots, garlic, ginger, fresh chilies, lemongrass, cashews, toasted shrimp paste, ground spices, turmeric and curry powder. Add 3 to 4 tbsp of the chili soaking water and blend to a very smooth paste.
Add in this stepFresh red chilies 1Shallots 90 gGarlic cloves 4Fresh ginger 10 gLemongrass stalks 2Cashews (or candlenuts) 5Ground turmeric ½ tspCurry powder 1½ tsp
Heat the remaining oil in a 22 cm pot, add the paste and fry over medium-low heat for , scraping the bottom constantly. It is done when it turns deep brick red and the red oil clearly separates and rises to the top. This step decides half the flavour of the broth.
Add in this stepCooking oil 3 tbsp
medium-low heatPour in the strained prawn stock and simmer over medium heat for so it marries with the paste. Add the coconut milk, tofu puffs, salt and palm sugar, lower to medium-low heat and simmer for more. Taste and balance salt, sweetness and heat with more salt and palm sugar.
Add in this stepCoconut milk 300 mlTofu puffs (hollow fried tofu) 6Salt ¾ tspPalm sugar (or light brown sugar) 1½ tsp
medium heat→medium-low heatBring plenty of water to a boil in a 20 cm pot over high heat. Boil the eggs for , then plunge them into ice water for jammy yolks. In the same water cook the rice vermicelli for and lift it out; finally blanch the egg noodles and bean sprouts for just 30 seconds.
Add in this stepEggs 2Thin rice vermicelli 60 gFresh yellow egg noodles 160 gBean sprouts 80 g
high heatKeep the broth at medium-low heat and poach the prepared prawns in it for ; lift them out the moment they turn opaque so they stay snappy. Fill bowls with noodles, sprouts and chicken, ladle over the hot broth and tofu puffs, then top with the prawns, halved jammy eggs and laksa leaves. Serve with sambal and lime.
Add in this stepLaksa leaf sprigs (Vietnamese coriander, or mint) 2Sambal (chili paste) 2 tspLime (or calamansi) 1
medium-low heat
Cook's tip
Press the prawn heads firmly while frying: that orange oil is where the deep prawn flavour comes from. Make the stock a day ahead and chill it; the set chicken fat lifts off easily and the cooking day goes much faster. Cook the prawns only just before serving, as they toughen if left in the broth.
Cooking it at camp
Make the stock and fried paste at home and freeze them in separate sealed tubs; they double as ice packs in the cooler. At the campsite, heat them together and add only the coconut milk and prawns. Boil the jammy eggs at home too, and one burner is all you need.