Slow-Braised Beef Shin Massaman with Whole Spices
A restaurant-style massaman: freshly toasted coriander and cumin, layered whole spices, and deeply seared beef shin braised in coconut milk for two hours until it falls apart.
Method
Trim off only the silvery sinew and cut the beef into large 5 cm chunks, then pat it very dry with kitchen paper. Toast the coriander and cumin seeds in a dry pan on medium-low heat for , shaking, until fragrant and a shade darker, then grind them finely in a mortar or spice grinder.
Add in this stepCoriander seeds 1 tspCumin seeds ½ tsp
medium-low heatHeat the oil in a wide, heavy pot (a cast-iron casserole is ideal) on medium-high heat and sear the beef in 1 batch(es), pieces not touching. Leave each batch undisturbed for , turning only to get a deep brown crust on all sides, then lift onto a plate. A crowded pot steams the meat instead of browning it.
Add in this stepNeutral oil 1 tbspBeef shin (shank) 400 g
medium-high heatTurn the heat down to medium heat, add the thick cream from the top of the coconut milk and simmer for , scraping up the browned bits from the bottom with a wooden spoon. When the oil separates and glistens, add the curry paste and the ground spices and fry for until fragrant.
Add in this stepCoconut milk (unsweetened, unshaken) 135 mlMassaman curry paste 2½ tbsp
medium heatReturn the beef and its juices, then add the rest of the coconut milk, the stock, cardamom, cinnamon, star anise and bay leaves. Bring to the boil on medium-high heat, turn down to low heat, set the lid slightly ajar and braise for . Stir to the bottom every 30 minutes and top up with a splash of water if the liquid drops below the meat.
Add in this stepCoconut milk (unsweetened, unshaken) 315 mlBeef stock (or water) 250 mlGreen cardamom pods 4Cinnamon stick (5 cm piece) 1Star anise 1Bay leaves 2
medium-high heat→low heatWhen the beef breaks apart easily with a fork, add the peeled small potatoes (halve any large ones), the whole shallots and the peanuts and simmer uncovered on medium-low heat for , until the potatoes are tender and the sauce clings glossily to the meat.
Add in this stepSmall waxy potatoes 300 gSmall shallots 6Roasted peanuts (unsalted) 40 g
medium-low heatAdd the tamarind, fish sauce and palm sugar and simmer on medium-low heat for more, tasting as you go. It is balanced when the tang props up the sweetness and a savoury saltiness lingers at the end.
Add in this stepTamarind paste 1½ tbspFish sauce 1 tbspPalm sugar 1½ tbsp
medium-low heatTurn off the heat, rest for 10 minutes and pick out the whole spices. Leave the red oil on the surface rather than skimming it; that is how a massaman should look. Serve with jasmine rice and a quick cucumber pickle.
Cook's tip
Beef cheek or chuck work instead of shin with a similar braising time. Made a day ahead, cooled and reheated, the meat is juicier and the flavour deeper. In a pressure cooker, step 4 takes about 35 minutes.
Cooking it at camp
Because of the long braise, it is realistic to cook up to step 4 at home, cool it and bring it along; at camp, add the potatoes and shallots as it reheats. With a Dutch oven over campfire coals you can make it from scratch.