Mentaiko Cream Pasta with Egg Yolk and Lemon

Method

1. Slit the roe sacs and scrape out the eggs, then set about a fifth aside on a small plate for the topping. Put the rest in a bowl with the egg yolks and light soy sauce, finely grate in only the yellow part of the lemon peel (the white pith is bitter) and whisk until smooth. Slice the garlic thinly.

   Add in this stepMentaiko (spicy cured pollock roe) 80 gEgg yolks 1Light (usukuchi) soy sauce 1 tspUnwaxed lemon (for zest) ¼

2. Fill a 20 cm pot with the water, cover and bring to a rolling boil over high heat, about 10 min, then add the salt.

   Add in this stepWater for the pasta 2 LSalt (for the pasta water) 2 tsp

   high heat

3. Add the spaghetti, stir once and keep it boiling over medium-high heat for 7 min: 2 minutes less than the packet says, because it finishes cooking in the sauce and soaks up its flavour.

   Add in this stepThick spaghetti (1.8–1.9 mm) 200 g

   medium-high heat

4. While the pasta cooks, put the butter and garlic in a 24 cm frying pan over medium-low heat and warm gently for 1 min 30 sec, until the garlic sizzles and smells sweet but has barely coloured. Pour in the cream and let it bubble gently at the edges for 1 min 30 sec, until slightly thickened.

   Add in this stepUnsalted butter 25 gGarlic cloves 1Double cream (35% fat or more) 90 ml

   medium-low heat

5. Lift the spaghetti straight into the pan with tongs, still a little wet, add the pasta water and keep tossing over medium heat for 1 min. The cream, water and pasta starch come together into a glossy sauce that clings to the strands.

   Add in this stepPasta cooking water (saved) 60 ml

   medium heat

6. Turn off the heat and wait 30 sec to let the pan cool slightly. Pour in the roe and yolk mixture and toss quickly and constantly with tongs: the remaining heat thickens the yolks and turns the roe pale pink. Too thick? Add pasta water 1 tablespoon at a time. Too thin? Set the pan over the lowest heat for 10 seconds at a time while stirring. Heating it too long scrambles the yolks.

7. Slice the shiso into fine threads and snip the nori into thin strips. Twirl the pasta with tongs into tall nests in the centre of each plate, top with the reserved roe, then the shiso and nori, and serve at once.

   Add in this stepMentaiko (spicy cured pollock roe) 20 gShiso leaves 5Toasted nori sheet ½