Moqueca baiana
Bahia's signature fish stew: lime-marinated white fish layered with tomato, onion and pepper, simmered in coconut milk and red dendê oil.
Method
Cut the fish into 4–5 cm pieces and pat dry with kitchen paper. Put it in a bowl with the lime juice, crushed garlic, salt and pepper, toss well and marinate in the fridge for . Any longer and the lime starts to make the fish mushy.
Add in this stepFirm white fish steaks or thick fillets (sea bass, snapper, cod, hake) 350 gLime (juice) 1Garlic cloves 2Salt 0.4 tspBlack pepper 1 pinch
While the fish marinates, slice the onion, tomatoes and bell pepper into 0.5 cm rounds, removing the pepper's seeds and white ribs. Chop the coriander and spring onions finely, and slice the chilli thinly (remove the seeds for less heat).
Drizzle the olive oil into a wide, heavy 22 cm pot (traditionally a clay pot) and lay half the onion, tomato and pepper slices over the bottom. Arrange the fish on top in a single layer with its marinade, cover with the remaining vegetables, then scatter over the chilli and half the coriander and spring onions. Don't turn the heat on yet.
Add in this stepOlive oil 1 tbspOnion 1Ripe tomatoes 2Bell pepper (mix red and green if you can) 1Small fresh chilli (malagueta or bird's eye, optional) 1Fresh coriander (cilantro) 5 gSpring onions 1
Cover and cook on medium heat for , until the vegetables release their juices and the liquid bubbles around the edges. Don't stir with a spoon: the fish will break up.
medium heatPour the coconut milk in around the edge of the pot and drizzle the dendê oil over the top. Hold the handles and gently swirl the pot to mix, then cook uncovered on medium-low heat for more. It's done when the sauce has turned orange and the fish is opaque in the centre and flakes when pressed with a fork.
Add in this stepCoconut milk 200 mlDendê oil (red palm oil) 2 tbsp
medium-low heatTaste the sauce and season with the remaining salt, turn off the heat and scatter over the rest of the coriander and spring onions. Leave it for 2 minutes so the flavours settle, then bring the pot to the table and serve with white rice.
Add in this stepSalt ⅛ tspFresh coriander (cilantro) 5 gSpring onions 1
Cook's tip
Dendê oil gives moqueca its colour and deep, nutty flavour. If you can't find it, mix ½ tsp sweet paprika into the olive oil; it is milder but keeps the colour. Choose firm white fish rather than oily fish like salmon, which falls apart.
Cooking it at camp
A heavy cast-iron pot or Dutch oven on a single camp burner works perfectly. Prep the fish at home and keep it in the cooler; add the lime marinade at the campsite. Wind weakens the flame, so set up a windbreak and allow 2–3 extra minutes of simmering.