Porcini-Stock Risotto with Butter-Seared Mushrooms
A restaurant-style risotto cooked in homemade porcini stock, finished with a sharp mantecatura and crowned with deeply seared, butter-basted mushrooms.
Method
Trim the fresh mushrooms and keep the stems and trimmings for the stock. Tear oyster mushrooms into strips, quarter the cremini and slice king oysters 1 cm thick: big pieces stay meaty when seared. Mince the shallots very finely (2 mm), lightly crush the garlic in its skin, cube the cold butter and grate the cheese.
Rinse the porcini briefly to wash off grit and put them in a 18 cm pot with the stock water, the mushroom trimmings, the stock thyme and the bay leaves. Bring to the boil over high heat, then lower to low heat and simmer gently for . Strain through a sieve lined with paper towel into a clean pot, squeeze the porcini and chop them finely. Keep the stock hot over the lowest heat; you need about 350 ml per serving, so top up with hot water if needed.
Add in this stepDried porcini (for the stock) 15 gWater (for the stock) 950 mlFresh thyme sprigs (for the stock) 2Bay leaves 1
high heat→low heatHeat the neutral oil in a 26 cm frying pan over high heat until it shimmers. Lay the mushrooms in a single layer (for 3 to 4 servings, work in two batches and split the oil and butter) and leave them untouched for until deep golden underneath. Turn them, add the butter, garlic and thyme, and cook for , spooning the foaming butter over them. Season with salt and spread them out on a tray so they stay crisp.
Add in this stepNeutral oil (for searing) 1½ tbspMixed fresh mushrooms (cremini, oyster, king oyster) 300 gButter (for basting) 15 gGarlic cloves 1Fresh thyme sprigs (for the mushrooms) 2.4Salt to taste
high heatIn a wide 24 cm pan for the risotto, warm the olive oil over medium-low heat, add the shallots and a pinch of salt and sweat for until soft and translucent without any colour.
Add in this stepExtra virgin olive oil 1 tbspShallots 1Salt to taste
medium-low heatAdd the rice and toast over medium heat for , stirring, until the grains are hot to the touch, translucent at the edges and making a faint crackling sound. Pour in the wine and stir for until it has evaporated completely; raw wine left behind makes the risotto taste sour.
Add in this stepCarnaroli rice (or Arborio) 160 gDry white wine 70 ml
medium heatAdd the chopped porcini, then the hot stock one ladle at a time, stirring regularly and adding more once the rice is almost dry. Keep a steady simmer over medium heat. Halfway through, roughly chop a third of the seared mushrooms and stir them in; start seasoning lightly with salt from this point. Cook for in total, until the rice is al dente and the risotto is a little looser than you want it to end up.
Add in this stepSalt to taste
medium heatTake the pan off the heat and leave it for : a slightly lower temperature lets the butter emulsify instead of turning oily. Add the cold butter, cheese and vinegar and beat hard with a wooden spoon for , shaking the pan, until glossy and creamy. Adjust with a splash of stock so it flows, and taste for salt.
Add in this stepCold butter, cubed (for finishing) 30 gParmigiano Reggiano, finely grated 41 gWhite wine vinegar ½ tspSalt to taste
Spoon onto warm plates and tap the bottom of each plate so the risotto spreads flat. Top with the remaining seared mushrooms, a few thyme leaves, black pepper and a little extra grated cheese.
Add in this stepFresh thyme sprigs (for the mushrooms) 0.6Freshly ground black pepper to tasteParmigiano Reggiano, finely grated 4.5 g
Cook's tip
The drops of vinegar don't make it sour; they sharpen the richness of the butter and cheese, a trick many Italian chefs use. Dry the mushrooms well and don't salt them before searing, or they release water and steam instead of browning. If the stock tastes weak after simmering, reduce it a few minutes longer rather than adding a stock cube.
Cooking it at camp
Make and strain the porcini stock at home and carry it chilled in a sealed bottle; at camp, warm it in a pot at the side of the stove. Sear the mushrooms first in a cast-iron pan over a strong burner, then cook the risotto in the same pan. A small bottle of vinegar and a block of Parmesan travel well.