Nan Gyi Thoke (Burmese Thick Rice Noodle Salad)
A favourite Burmese breakfast: thick rice noodles tossed with rich chicken curry, toasted chickpea flour, shallot oil, fish sauce and lime.
Method
Slice the shallots thinly (1–2 mm), put them in a 16 cm small pot with half the oil and set over medium heat. Fry for , stirring, and lift them out onto paper towels as soon as they are pale golden; they keep darkening afterwards, and taking them out early stops them turning bitter. Pour the shallot-scented oil into a bowl and keep it.
Add in this stepPeanut oil (or vegetable oil) 2½ tbspShallots 3
medium heatPut half the chickpea flour in a dry pan and toast over medium-low heat for , stirring constantly, until it goes from pale beige to a light golden tan and smells nutty. Tip it onto a plate straight away; left in the pan, it burns quickly.
Add in this stepChickpea flour (besan) 1½ tbsp
medium-low heatBlend the onion, garlic and ginger with 1 tbsp water to a smooth paste. Cut the chicken into 1.5 cm pieces and mix with half the turmeric, half the fish sauce and the salt. Slice the red onion thinly and soak it in cold water to tame its bite.
Add in this stepOnion (medium) 1Garlic cloves 3Fresh ginger 10 gBoneless chicken thighs 200 gGround turmeric ¼ tspFish sauce 1¾ tspSalt 1 pinch
Heat the rest of the oil in a 18 cm pot, add the onion paste, the remaining turmeric, the paprika and chilli powder and fry over medium-low heat for , scraping the bottom, until the moisture has gone, the paste is reddish brown and the oil separates and shimmers.
Add in this stepPeanut oil (or vegetable oil) 2½ tbspGround turmeric ¼ tspPaprika 1 tspChilli powder ½ tsp
medium-low heatAdd the chicken and fry over medium heat for . Whisk the remaining (untoasted) chickpea flour into the water until smooth, pour it in and simmer for , stirring, until it is as thick as gravy and the chicken is cooked through. Add a splash of water if it gets too thick.
Add in this stepChickpea flour (besan) 1½ tbspWater 220 ml
medium heatBring a large pot of water (2 L) to the boil over high heat, add the eggs and cook for , then cool them in cold water and peel. Cook the noodles in the same water for , stirring, until soft right through but still springy. Rinse under cold water to wash off the starch and shake very dry. (If the packet says to soak first, soak them in warm water for 30 minutes beforehand.)
Add in this stepEggs 2Thick round dried rice noodles (nan gyi or bún bò Huế style) 160 g
high heatPut the noodles in bowls and add 1–2 tbsp shallot oil, the rest of the fish sauce, the toasted chickpea flour, lime juice and chilli flakes to each; toss well with chopsticks (in Myanmar, by hand). Top with plenty of chicken curry, halved eggs, drained red onion, crispy shallots and coriander. Adjust with more lime and fish sauce as you eat.
Add in this stepFish sauce 1¾ tspLime 1Chilli flakes ½ tspRed onion ½Chopped coriander leaves 2 tbsp
Cook's tip
If you can't find thick round rice noodles, udon or wide flat rice noodles are also delicious. Chickpea flour is sold as besan in Indian grocers. The curry tastes even better made ahead.
Cooking it at camp
Make the curry, crispy shallots, toasted chickpea flour and shallot oil at home. At the campsite just boil water for the noodles and eggs, reheat the curry and toss. Bring plenty of drinking water for rinsing the noodles.