Dry-Brined Goat Nyama Choma with Charred Pili-Pili and Sukuma Wiki

Method

1. Cut the meat on the bone into 6 to 8 cm pieces, pat thoroughly dry and rub all over with the coarse salt and pepper. Set on a rack over a tray and refrigerate, uncovered, for 12 h. The salt seasons the meat right through and keeps it juicy, while the dried surface grills much crisper. Take it out 30 minutes before grilling.

   Add in this stepBone-in goat leg or shoulder (or lamb), in large pieces 700 gCoarse salt (for the dry brine) 1½ tspCoarsely ground black pepper ½ tsp

2. Light 2 kg of charcoal and wait 20 min; when the coals are covered in white ash, bank them on one side to make a direct zone and an indirect zone. Keep the indirect zone at charcoal (medium heat): you can hold your hand 10 cm above the grate for 5 to 6 seconds.

   charcoal (medium heat)

3. Put the meat in the indirect zone, close the lid and grill over charcoal (medium heat) for 40 min, turning every 10 minutes. Insert a probe thermometer into the thickest piece: when it reads 65 °C, move on to the next step; if it's lower, keep going. Add a few fresh coals partway through if the fire fades.

   charcoal (medium heat)

4. While the meat cooks, put the red chillies and unpeeled garlic over the direct zone and grill over charcoal (medium heat) for 4 min, turning, until blistered and blackened in patches. Let them cool slightly, peel the garlic, remove the chilli stems, then pound or finely chop and mix with the lime juice, oil and salt to make the pili-pili sauce. Deseed the chillies if you want it milder.

   Add in this stepRed chillies (for the pili-pili) 2Garlic cloves, unpeeled (for the pili-pili) 1Lime (for the pili-pili) ½Vegetable oil (for the pili-pili) 2 tbspSalt (for the pili-pili) 1 pinch

   charcoal (medium heat)

5. Kachumbari: thinly slice the red onion, soak in salted water for 5 minutes and rinse. Dice the tomato and avocado into 1.5 cm cubes, chop the coriander, combine, then add the salt and lime juice and fold gently so the avocado doesn't turn to mush.

   Add in this stepRipe tomato (for the kachumbari) 1Ripe avocado ½Red onion (for the kachumbari) ½Fresh coriander 10 gLime (for the kachumbari) ½Salt (for the kachumbari) 1 pinch

6. Sukuma wiki: strip the thick stems from the kale, roll up the leaves and slice into 5 mm ribbons. Heat the oil in a 24 cm pan over medium-high heat, cook the chopped onion, add the tomato, then the kale and salt; toss for 6 min in total, until wilted but still bright green.

   Add in this stepVegetable oil (for the sukuma wiki) 1½ tbspOnion (for the sukuma wiki) ½Tomato (for the sukuma wiki) ½Kale or collard greens (for the sukuma wiki) 200 gSalt (for the sukuma wiki) 1 pinch

   medium-high heat

7. Move the meat over the direct zone and sear over charcoal (medium heat) for 4 min, turning, until deeply charred (about 70 °C inside). Rest it on a board for 5 min so the juices settle, then chop on the bone into bite-size pieces and sprinkle with flaky salt. Serve with the pili-pili, kachumbari and sukuma wiki.

   Add in this stepFlaky salt (to finish) 1 pinch

   charcoal (medium heat)