Beef Skewer Oden in First Dashi
Oden-shop style: a cold-brewed kombu and bonito first dashi, slow-cooked beef skewers and rice-water daikon, steeped twice so every piece is flavoured through.
Method
Put the kombu in the dashi water and let it steep in the fridge for . A slow cold brew pulls out deep savouriness without any bitterness.
Add in this stepWater, for the dashi 1,200 mlKombu (dried kelp) 15 g
Cut the beef into 3 cm pieces, blanch in boiling extra water over high heat for , then rinse off the scum under cold water. Cover with fresh extra water in a clean pot, add half the sake and simmer over medium-low heat for , until a chopstick slides in easily. Once cool enough to handle, thread 3 pieces onto each bamboo skewer; skim the fat from the cooking liquid and keep it.
Add in this stepBeef shank (or beef tendon) 200 gCooking sake 1½ tbsp
high heat→medium-low heatPeel the daikon thickly, cut into 3 cm rounds, bevel the edges and score a cross on one side. Put the daikon and rice in a pot with water to cover, cook over medium heat for until a skewer slides in, then rinse. The starchy rice water takes away bitterness and keeps the daikon white.
Add in this stepDaikon radish 300 gRaw rice, for the blanching water 1 tbsp
medium heatCook the eggs in boiling water over high heat for , cool in cold water and peel. Meanwhile, tear the konnyaku into bite-size pieces with a spoon (the rough surface soaks up more broth) and blanch them in boiling water for 3 minutes.
Add in this stepEggs 2Konnyaku (konjac) block 125 g
high heatHeat the kombu water slowly over medium-low heat for ; lift out the kombu just before it boils, add the katsuobushi and turn off the heat. When the flakes sink, strain through a sieve lined with kitchen paper. Don't squeeze them, or the dashi turns fishy.
Add in this stepKatsuobushi (bonito flakes) 20 g
medium-low heatIn a 22 cm pot, combine the first dashi, a ladle of the beef cooking liquid, the rest of the sake, the soy sauce, mirin and salt, then add the daikon, beef skewers, eggs and konnyaku. Keep it just below a simmer (80 to 90 °C) over low heat for , then turn off the heat and leave it for to soak in the flavour as it cools.
Add in this stepCooking sake 1½ tbspUsukuchi (light-coloured) soy sauce 2 tbspMirin 2 tbspSalt ½ tsp
low heatPour boiling water over the atsuage and fish cakes to remove excess oil. Put the pot back over medium-low heat, add them and heat for .
Add in this stepAtsuage (thick fried tofu) 150 gAssorted Japanese fish cakes (chikuwa, satsuma-age) 200 g
medium-low heatArrange a little of everything in bowls with plenty of broth, scatter thinly sliced scallions over the beef skewers and serve with the karashi.
Add in this stepKarashi (Japanese hot mustard) 1 tspScallions 10 g
Cook's tip
Never letting the broth boil is the key to clear, fragrant oden. Beef tendon is even more gelatinous but needs about an hour more simmering. On day two the broth reduces, so top it up with a little dashi or water.
Cooking it at camp
For camping, do the beef, the daikon and the dashi at home and carry everything chilled in its broth in sealed containers. At the campsite, pour it into a pot, warm it slowly over a low burner and add just the atsuage and fish cakes. Pack the scallions and karashi separately.