Shop-Style Onigiri with Salmon Flakes and Kombu Tsukudani

Method

1. Sprinkle part of the salt evenly over both sides of the salmon and leave it for 20 min. When beads of moisture appear on the surface, the fishy taste has been drawn out; pat it thoroughly dry with kitchen paper. This firms the flesh and seasons it all the way through.

   Add in this stepFresh salmon fillet, skin on 100 gCoarse sea salt, finely crushed ½ tsp

2. Wash the rice gently with your fingertips 3 or 4 times, until the water is almost clear, and drain. Put the rice, the measured water and the kombu (wiped with a damp cloth) into the pot and soak for 30 min.

   Add in this stepJapanese short-grain rice 200 gWater (for cooking the rice) 250 mlKombu (about a 5 cm square) 8 g

3. Add the sake, cover the 16 cm pot and bring to a boil over high heat. As soon as it starts bubbling, quickly lift the lid, take out the kombu (keep it) and cover again, then turn down to low heat and cook for 12 min. Turn off the heat and leave it covered to steam for 10 min.

   Add in this stepCooking sake 2 tsp

   high heat→low heat

4. Put the salmon skin side down in a 20 cm non-stick frying pan and cook over medium heat for 8 min; when the skin is golden and crisp, turn it and cook until opaque all the way through. Remove the bones, flake the flesh finely and chop the crisp skin. Return everything to the pan with the sesame seeds and stir over low heat for 2 min until dry and fluffy: these are your salmon flakes.

   Add in this stepToasted white sesame seeds 2 tsp

   medium heat→low heat

5. Cut the reserved kombu into 5 mm squares and put it in a small pan with the soy sauce, mirin, sugar, vinegar and 2 tablespoons of water. Simmer over medium-low heat for 6 min, until the liquid has almost gone and the kombu is glossy. The splash of vinegar softens the kombu quickly.

   Add in this stepSoy sauce 1½ tspMirin 1½ tspSugar ½ tspRice vinegar ½ tsp

   medium-low heat

6. Toast the nori by passing it back and forth about 10 cm above a gas flame on medium heat, 2 to 3 seconds per side, until it turns from dark to bright green and crisp. Cut each sheet in half.

   Add in this stepNori sheets (full size, cut in half) 2

   medium heat

7. Turn the rice out into a wide bowl, cut through it with the paddle and let the steam escape for about 3 minutes. Wet your hands, rub them with a pinch of the remaining salt and take about 100 g of rice; put salmon flakes or kombu in the centre. Cup your palms around it and press lightly just 3 times, turning it, so the outside holds but the inside stays airy and falls apart in the mouth. Make 4 this way, half with each filling, and wrap them in the toasted nori. They are best eaten within an hour.

   Add in this stepCoarse sea salt, finely crushed 1 tsp