Ossobuco with Saffron Risotto alla Milanese
The full Milanese plate: oven-braised veal shanks with bay and a glossy reduced sauce, served on golden saffron risotto with a sharp gremolata.
Method
Heat the oven to 160 °C with a shelf in the lower middle. Pat the shanks dry, snip the thin skin around the edge in 3 or 4 places so they stay flat, and tie each one around the middle with kitchen string. Season both sides with the salt, dust with the flour and tap off the excess.
Add in this stepVeal shank, cross-cut 3–4 cm thick (about 300 g each) 2Salt (for the meat) ¾ tspPlain flour, for dusting 2 tbsp
Heat the oil in an ovenproof 24 cm casserole with a lid over medium-high heat. Brown the shanks in a single layer for in total, turning once, until both sides have a deep brown crust; that crust is the base of the sauce's flavour. Lift them onto a plate and pour off any fat that smells burnt.
Add in this stepOlive oil 1½ tbsp
medium-high heatCut the onion, carrot and celery into 3–4 mm dice. Melt the butter in the casserole over medium heat and cook the vegetables for , until soft and sweet with no colour. Turn up to medium-high heat, add the wine and scrape the bottom with a wooden spoon to dissolve every brown bit, then let it bubble for until reduced by half.
Add in this stepButter (for the meat) 20 gOnion ½Carrot ½Celery stalk ½Dry white wine (for the meat) 120 ml
medium heat→medium-high heatReturn the shanks with their juices, add the bay leaves and pour in the stock until it comes about two-thirds of the way up the meat. Bring just to a simmer on the hob, cover and braise in the oven for , turning the shanks once halfway. The oven surrounds the pot with steady heat, so the meat cooks evenly and does not catch on the bottom. They are ready when a knife slides in like butter and the meat is pulling away from the bone.
Add in this stepBeef or veal stock (for the meat) 450 mlBay leaves 1
ovenWhile the meat is in the oven, make the gremolata: finely grate the lemon zest (yellow part only), mince the garlic as finely as you can and mix with the parsley. Cover and set aside.
Add in this stepUnwaxed lemon (zest only) ½Flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped 2 tbspGarlic clove 1
About 30 minutes before the meat is done, start the risotto. Bring the stock for the risotto to a bare simmer in a small pot and keep it hot. In a wide 22 cm pan, melt half the butter over medium-low heat and cook the finely chopped shallot for until soft. Add the rice, turn up to medium heat and toast for , stirring, until the grains are hot and their edges look translucent. Pour in the wine and stir until it has evaporated.
Add in this stepChicken stock (for the risotto) 650 mlCold butter, cubed (for the risotto) 18 gShallot 1Carnaroli or Arborio rice (do not rinse) 160 gDry white wine (for the risotto) 50 ml
medium-low heat→medium heatAdd the hot stock one ladle at a time, stirring often and waiting until each ladle is almost absorbed before adding the next; keep it at a lively simmer over medium heat. Crumble the saffron into a ladle of stock and add it about halfway. Cook for in total, until the rice is creamy but each grain still has a slight bite in the centre.
Add in this stepSaffron threads 2 pinch
medium heatLift the shanks onto a warm plate, remove the bay and boil the braising liquid on the hob over medium-high heat for , until it is glossy and coats a spoon. Take the risotto off the heat, add the rest of the cold butter and the Parmigiano and beat hard with a wooden spoon for 1 minute (the mantecatura) until it flows in a slow wave when you shake the pan; season with salt. Spread the risotto on warm plates, set a shank on top, spoon over the sauce and finish with the gremolata.
Add in this stepCold butter, cubed (for the risotto) 18 gParmigiano Reggiano, finely grated 30 gSalt (for the risotto) to taste
medium-high heat
Cook's tip
Never rinse risotto rice: the surface starch is what makes it creamy. Risotto waits for nobody, so time it to finish when the meat comes out; the ossobuco happily sits covered for 20 minutes. If the braising sauce tastes flat, a few drops of lemon juice wake it up.
Cooking it at camp
The oven step becomes a heavy cast-iron pot with a lid over the lowest burner flame, or a Dutch oven in the embers with coals on the lid. Make the risotto in a wide pan on a second burner while the meat rests; bring hot stock in an insulated flask to save fuel.