Aged-Cheese Sour Cassava Pão de Queijo
A bakery-style pão de queijo with mostly sour cassava starch, butter and aged cheese, baked cold into a hot oven so it puffs tall and hollow with a crackly crust.
Method
Take the eggs out 30 minutes ahead. Grate both cheeses on the finest side of the grater. Sift both starches and the salt into a large bowl; sifting means no dry lumps and an even scald.
Add in this stepEggs (room temperature, beaten) 1Aged queijo canastra (or an aged hard cheese such as gruyère) 70 gParmigiano Reggiano 20 gPolvilho azedo (sour cassava starch) 95 gPolvilho doce (tapioca starch) 30 gFine salt ½ tsp
Bring the milk, water, oil and butter to the boil in a 14 cm saucepan over medium-high heat for . The butter must be fully melted and the whole surface boiling hard; liquid that is only hot will not cook the starch enough and the bread will rise less. Pour it over the starch in a thin stream, stirring nonstop with a wooden spoon, until every bit is moistened into translucent clumps.
Add in this stepMilk 70 mlWater 25 mlNeutral oil 27 mlUnsalted butter 10 g
medium-high heatLet the dough cool for about 10 minutes until warm. Add the eggs in three additions and knead for , pushing the dough away with the heel of your hand and folding it back. When it is smooth and stretchy, work in the cheeses. It is right when a fingertip leaves a dent and it feels slightly tacky.
Cover the dough and chill it for 30 minutes to firm up. Weigh it into 12 pieces of 25 g and roll each into a smooth, crack-free ball with lightly oiled hands. Set them 4 cm apart on a lined tray and freeze for 20 minutes until the outside is firm.
Add in this stepNeutral oil 3 ml
Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 200 °C for a full . A thoroughly hot oven makes the cold dough spring up in the first minutes.
ovenPut 1 tray(s) of cold dough straight into the oven and bake at 200 °C for . Without opening the door, lower the temperature to 180 °C and bake for another . They are done when tall, split on top, evenly golden and light when tapped. Cool for 5 minutes so the crust crisps before serving.
oven
Cook's tip
The more sour starch, the lighter and more hollow the rolls. Aged cheese is salty, so weigh the salt exactly. The jump from cold dough to hot oven is what makes them soar. Reheat leftovers at 180 °C for 3 minutes to bring back the crunch.
Cooking it at camp
Portion the 25 g balls at home, freeze them hard and carry them frozen in the cooler. Preheat a lidded cast-iron Dutch oven over embers for 10 minutes, set the balls on baking paper inside, pile plenty of embers on the lid and bake 25 to 30 minutes. Heat is less even than an oven, so rotate the pot once halfway.