Butter-Spiral Pastéis de Nata (Belém Style)
Lisbon-bakery style: puff pastry brushed with butter and rolled for extra layers, custard made with infused milk and a 103 °C syrup, blistered at 290 °C on a hot tray.
Method
Dust the worktop with flour, unroll the pastry and roll it about 30% thinner (roughly 2 mm). Spread the soft butter thinly all over, then roll it up tightly from a short side, pressing out any air, into a firm log. Wrap and refrigerate for ; firm butter makes the layers separate cleanly.
Add in this stepFlour for dusting 1 tbspAll-butter puff pastry (ready-rolled sheet) 160 gButter, very soft (for spreading) 15 g
Now turn the oven to its highest setting with a heavy baking tray or pizza stone on the top shelf (it needs at least 45 minutes to heat through). Put three-quarters of the milk, the lemon peel and the cinnamon stick in a small pan and heat on medium-low heat for , until steam rises from the edges, then turn off the heat, cover and infuse for .
Add in this stepWhole milk 98 mlStrips of lemon peel (no white pith) 1Cinnamon stick 1
medium-low heatBoil the sugar and water in a small 14 cm pan on medium-high heat for without stirring, until a thermometer reads 103–105 °C, then take it off the heat. Without a thermometer: a drop pressed between two spoons and pulled apart forms a fine thread. Never touch hot syrup with your fingers; it causes serious burns.
Add in this stepSugar 100 gWater 60 ml
medium-high heatIn another pan, whisk the flour and salt with the remaining cold milk until smooth. Strain in the infused milk, discarding the lemon and cinnamon, and cook on medium heat for , whisking constantly and scraping the bottom, until it thickens like a thin custard.
Add in this stepWhole milk 33 mlPlain flour 13 gSalt 1 pinch
medium heatPour in the syrup in a thin stream, whisking all the time, then cool for until below 50 °C (just warm on the back of your hand). Stir in the egg yolks gently, so you don't whisk in bubbles, until smooth, then strain through a fine sieve into a jug.
Add in this stepEgg yolks 3
Trim the ends of the chilled log and cut it into 6 slices about 2 cm thick. Put them spiral side up in a nonstick muffin tin, dip your thumbs in cold water and press from the centre outwards: very thin at the base, slightly thicker as you go up the walls, rising 2 mm above the rim. Chill the tin for so the pastry is cold again.
Stir the custard once and fill the cases three-quarters full. Set the tin on the preheated tray and bake in the oven at 290 °C for ; the hot tray cooks the base straight away so it crisps right through. Take them out when the pastry is dark golden and crisp and the custard has puffed with scattered black blisters. The door and tray are extremely hot, so use thick oven gloves.
ovenLeave in the tin for 5 minutes, then lift out with a small knife and cool on a rack for at least 15 minutes so the custard sets. Serve warm and let everyone dust their own with cinnamon and icing sugar, as they do in Lisbon.
Add in this stepGround cinnamon to tasteIcing sugar to taste
Cook's tip
Three things make the Belém texture: the butter-spread spiral, the 103 °C syrup and the hottest oven you have. A very bubbly custard cracks in the oven, so mix the yolks in with a spatula rather than a whisk. The custard keeps a day in the fridge; stir it before filling.
Cooking it at camp
290 °C is hard to reproduce at camp, so bake at home and pack the tarts in a rigid box. On site, heat a Dutch oven well over coals, then pile coals on the lid too and warm the tarts for 3–4 minutes to re-crisp the base.