Pisco Picarones with Fig-Leaf Chancaca Syrup

Method

1. Put the water and aniseed in a 14 cm small pan over medium heat, boil for 5 min, then turn off the heat and let it steep. Strain and cool until just warm on your wrist, about 37 °C. This aniseed tea is the only liquid in the dough, so the flavour runs through every bite.

   Add in this stepWater for the aniseed tea 200 mlWhole aniseed 1 tsp

   medium heat

2. Cut the sweet potato and squash into 3 cm pieces and steam them in a 20 cm steamer over medium-high heat for 20 min, until a skewer slides straight in. Steaming instead of boiling keeps them drier, so the dough is lighter and tastes more of the vegetables.

   Add in this stepSweet potato 80 gButternut squash (or pumpkin) 80 g

   medium-high heat

3. While hot, press them through a fine sieve to get a perfectly smooth, fibre-free purée, then let it cool to lukewarm. Dissolve the yeast and sugar in 3 tablespoons of the aniseed tea and leave for 10 min to check that it foams.

   Add in this stepInstant dried yeast 1 tspSugar 1 tsp

4. In a bowl, combine the purée, yeast mixture, bread flour, salt, pisco and orange zest (only the orange part; the white pith is bitter). Work in the remaining aniseed tea gradually and knead by hand or with a dough hook for 12 min, until the dough is glossy, very soft and stretches in long unbroken strands. The gluten in bread flour gives picarones their signature chew.

   Add in this stepStrong bread flour 160 gSalt 1 pinchPisco (or white rum; optional) 1 tbspOrange (for finely grated zest) ½

5. Cover and leave in a warm place for 1 h 30 min. When doubled, press it down gently with wet hands to release the gas, cover again and let it rise for another 30 min; the second rise gives a finer, more even crumb.

6. Meanwhile, put the chancaca, water, orange peel, cloves, allspice, cinnamon and fig leaves in a 16 cm saucepan over medium heat and reduce for 18 min. It is ready at 105 °C on a thermometer, or when it runs off a spoon like runny honey. Turn off the heat, stir in the lime juice to balance the sweetness, fish out the leaves and spices and keep warm.

   Add in this stepChancaca (raw cane sugar; panela or dark brown sugar work) 140 gWater for the syrup 150 mlOrange peel strips 2Cloves 3Whole allspice berries 3Cinnamon stick 1Fig leaves (optional) 1Lime juice 1 tsp

   medium heat

7. Pour the oil into a deep 20 cm pot, at least 5 cm deep but no more than a third full, and heat over medium-high heat for 8 min to exactly 180 °C on a thermometer. Never leave hot oil unattended and keep a lid within reach; if it catches fire, cover it and turn off the heat, never use water.

   Add in this stepSunflower oil for deep-frying 700 ml

   medium-high heat

8. Wet your hands in salted water and shake off the drips. Pull off a piece of dough, push your thumbs through to make a large, thin ring and lay it into the oil close to the surface. Spin it with a wooden skewer to widen the hole, flip once, and fry 3–4 at a time in batches (2 in total), 3 min per batch, until a deep copper colour. Adjust to medium heat to hold 175–185 °C. Drain briefly and spoon the warm syrup over at once.

   medium heat