Tallow-Fried Poutine with Shallot Peppercorn Gravy
A restaurant-style poutine: vinegar-parboiled fries double-fried in beef tallow until glass-crisp, under a red wine, shallot and cracked-pepper gravy.
Method
Peel the potatoes and cut them into even sticks 1.2 cm thick. Rinse them in cold water, swishing with your hand and changing the water until it runs clear.
Add in this stepStarchy potatoes (russet type) 500 g
Put the potatoes in a 20 cm pot with the cold water, salt and vinegar. Bring to the boil over high heat, then lower to medium heat and simmer for , until a knife slides in and the edges look slightly fuzzy but the sticks still hold their shape; the vinegar stops them from falling apart. Lift them out gently with a slotted spoon.
Add in this stepWater (for parboiling) 1½ LWhite vinegar 2 tbspSalt (for the cooking water) 2 tsp
high heat→medium heatSpread the potatoes in a single layer on a rack, let the steam escape, then chill them uncovered in the fridge for . The drier the surface, the more glass-like the crust will be.
Meanwhile, start the gravy. Melt part of the butter in a 16 cm saucepan over medium heat and cook the shallots, garlic, thyme and crushed peppercorns for , until the shallots are translucent and golden at the edges.
Add in this stepButter (cold) 21 gShallots, finely chopped 1Garlic cloves, crushed 1Thyme sprigs 2Black peppercorns, coarsely crushed ¾ tsp
medium heatSprinkle in the flour and stir over medium heat for . Pour in the wine, scraping up the bottom, and boil until it has almost disappeared. Add the stock and Worcestershire sauce, lower to medium-low heat and simmer for , until reduced by about a third and coating a spoon. Strain through a sieve, pressing hard on the solids.
Add in this stepPlain flour 18 gDry red wine 50 mlBeef stock 280 mlWorcestershire sauce 1 tsp
medium heat→medium-low heatMelt the tallow in a 22 cm · 2× heavy pot (pot size · number of batches) over medium-high heat, no more than one-third full, and heat it to 150 °C. Gently lower in one batch of potatoes and fry each batch for , until a pale blond skin forms. Lift onto a rack and rest for . Make sure the potatoes are dry, never leave the fat unattended and turn off the heat if it smokes.
Add in this stepBeef tallow (for frying) 1,350 g
medium-high heatRaise the heat to high heat and bring the fat to 190 °C. Fry again in the same batches, each, until deep golden and rustling when you shake the basket. Drain and season straight away with flaky salt.
Add in this stepFlaky sea salt to taste
high heatReheat the gravy over medium-low heat for until it bubbles at the edges, take it off the heat and whisk in the cold butter, cut into cubes, for a glossy finish. In warmed bowls, layer half the fries, half the curds and half the gravy, then repeat, so the curds melt all the way through. Scatter with chives and serve at once.
Add in this stepButter (cold) 14 gFresh cheese curds (room temperature) 200 gChives, finely sliced 2 tsp
medium-low heat
Cook's tip
Tallow gives the nutty, old-fashioned flavour of a Québec chip stand; duck fat or neutral oil work at the same temperatures. Warm the bowls in a low oven so the gravy stays hot to the last bite. Layering the curds means none are left cold at the bottom.
Cooking it at camp
Parboil the potatoes and make the gravy at home; carry the gravy in a sealed jar. At camp, skip deep-frying: shallow-fry the fries in 1 cm of tallow in a wide, heavy pan in small batches, with a lid within reach to smother any flare-up. Never cook inside a tent.