Rogan Josh
Kashmir's classic lamb curry: bone-in lamb fried with whole spices in mustard oil, then slowly braised with Kashmiri chilli, yogurt and fennel until a red oil glistens on top.
Method
Cut the lamb into 5 cm pieces (your butcher can do this) and pat them very dry with paper towels. Take the yogurt out of the fridge ahead and whisk it until smooth. In a small bowl, mix the Kashmiri chilli powder and asafoetida with the water to a loose paste; chilli stirred into water colours the oil beautifully without burning.
Add in this stepKashmiri chilli powder 1¼ tbspAsafoetida (hing) 1 pinchWater (for the chilli paste) 60 ml
Pour the mustard oil into a heavy 22 cm pot and heat over high heat for , until it just starts to smoke and turns from deep yellow to pale. Turn off the heat and let it cool for 1 minute. This takes away the raw, sharp taste of the oil. Open a window and don't leave the pot while it heats.
Add in this stepMustard oil 3 tbsp
high heatReturn to medium-high heat, add the black and green cardamom, cloves, cinnamon and bay leaves and stir for 20 seconds until fragrant. Add the lamb and salt (careful, it spits) and fry for , turning often, until the juices the meat releases have evaporated and the pieces are browned in places.
Add in this stepBlack cardamom pods 1Green cardamom pods 3Cloves 3Cinnamon stick (5 cm) 1Bay leaves 1Bone-in lamb (shoulder or leg) 500 gSalt 1 tsp
medium-high heatLower the heat to medium-low heat, add the chilli paste and stir for , until the oil turns a deep red. Keep stirring so it doesn't catch: burnt chilli tastes bitter.
medium-low heatTake the pot off the heat and add the yogurt one spoonful at a time, stirring well after each; added all at once, it curdles. Return to medium heat and cook for , until the yogurt has been absorbed into the meat and the oil separates at the edges.
Add in this stepFull-fat plain yogurt 120 g
medium heatSprinkle in the ground fennel and ginger, stir for 30 seconds and pour in the hot water. Bring to the boil over high heat, then cover, reduce to low heat and simmer for . Stir every 15 minutes and add a splash of water if it gets too dry. It is done when the meat is tender enough to come away from the bone easily.
Add in this stepGround fennel 3 tspGround ginger (sonth) 1 tspHot water (for braising) 350 ml
high heat→low heatUncover, sprinkle over the garam masala and simmer over medium-low heat for to thicken the sauce, until a red oil (the 'rogan') floats on the surface. Turn off the heat, rest for 5 minutes, fish out the whole spices and serve with steamed rice.
Add in this stepGaram masala ½ tsp
medium-low heat
Cook's tip
Kashmiri chilli is mild and bright red, so the large amount is right. If you can't find it, mix 3 parts paprika with 1 part cayenne. Full-fat yogurt is far less likely to split than low-fat. Like most curries, it tastes even deeper reheated the next day.
Cooking it at camp
A heavy cast-iron pot (Dutch oven) works well over charcoal. Heat the oil and brown the meat on a burner, then braise over gentle embers or with a few coals on the lid for about an hour. Cut the meat before you leave and keep it cold in the cooler.