Pampanga-Style Sisig with Pig Ears and Charcoal-Grilled Belly

Method

1. Scrape any remaining hairs off the pig ears with the back of a knife, scrub them with coarse salt and rinse. Put the ears and belly in a 22 cm pot, cover with water and add the bay leaves, peppercorns and boiling salt. Bring to the boil on high heat, skim, then lower to medium-low heat and simmer for 1 h 5 min. The ear cartilage should be tender but still a little chewy, and a chopstick should slide easily into the belly.

   Add in this stepSkin-on pork belly, in one piece 300 gPig ears (or extra pork belly) 160 gBay leaves 2Whole black peppercorns 1 tspSalt, for the boiling water 1½ tsp

   high heat→medium-low heat

2. Lift them out, pat dry and leave them uncovered in the fridge for 30 min to dry the surface. The drier the skin, the better it blisters and chars over the coals.

3. Light the charcoal and, once the coals are covered in white ash, set the grill over them (charcoal (medium heat)) and grill the ears and belly for 14 min in total, turning often, until the skin is blistered and charred black in spots. If dripping fat flares up, move the meat to the side with fewer coals. Grill the chicken livers on skewers for the last 3 to 4 minutes, until cooked through with no pink.

   Add in this stepChicken livers 80 g

   charcoal (medium heat)

4. Let the meat cool slightly, then chop it very finely, into 3 to 5 mm bits, with a heavy knife; slicing the ears into thin strips first makes this easier. Finely chop the livers and mash them with the vinegar into a smooth paste. This liver paste is the original secret that binds sisig together.

   Add in this stepCane vinegar (or rice vinegar) 1 tbsp

5. In a large bowl, toss the chopped meat with the liver paste, most of the finely chopped red onion, the sliced chillies, calamansi juice, pepper and salt, then leave for 5 minutes so the onion softens slightly in the acid and the flavours meld. Taste and adjust the sourness and salt.

   Add in this stepRed onion ¾Bird's eye chillies (siling labuyo) 3Calamansi juice (or lime juice) 3 tbspCoarsely ground black pepper ¾ tspSalt ½ tsp

6. Heat a 24 cm cast-iron pan on high heat for 5 min, until smoking. Melt the lard, add the sisig, press it flat and leave it without stirring for 3 min to build a crisp crust on the bottom. Turn it over in a few places with a spatula so the crust is mixed through.

   Add in this stepLard or butter 1½ tbsp

   high heat

7. Set the pan on a wooden board and scatter over the roughly crushed chicharrón, spring onions and the rest of the red onion. Serve while it is still sizzling, with rice or a cold beer.

   Add in this stepStore-bought chicharrón (pork cracklings) 20 gSpring onions 1Red onion ¼Steamed rice to taste