Irish Soda Bread

Method

1. Put a shelf in the middle of the oven and preheat it to 230 °C (210 °C fan); line a baking tray with baking paper and dust it with a little flour. Sift the flour, bicarbonate of soda and salt into a large bowl, then whisk for 30 seconds so the soda is spread evenly; lumps of soda leave bitter, yellow-green spots in the bread.

   Add in this stepPlain flour 250 gBicarbonate of soda (baking soda) 1 tspFine salt ½ tsp

2. Make a deep well in the middle and pour in about nine-tenths of the buttermilk. With one hand shaped like a stiff claw, stir in wide circles from the centre outwards, bringing in the flour from the sides, for no more than a minute. The dough should be soft, shaggy and slightly sticky; if dry floury patches remain, add the rest of the buttermilk. Work quickly: the soda starts to react as soon as it meets the buttermilk.

   Add in this stepButtermilk 220 ml

3. Sprinkle the dusting flour onto the worktop, tip the dough out and, with floured hands, tuck the edges underneath just a few times to make a rough round; do not knead, or the bread turns tough. Pat it into a 15 cm round about 4 cm high and move it onto the tray. With a floured knife, cut a deep cross over the top, about halfway through the dough, so the heat reaches the centre.

   Add in this stepPlain flour (for dusting) 1 tbsp

4. Bake straight away in the oven at 230 °C for 15 min, then lower the temperature to 200 °C and bake for 17 min more. It is done when the crust is golden brown and the bottom sounds hollow when you tap it; a thermometer pushed into the centre should read at least 93 °C. If the inside of the cross still looks pale and damp, give it 5 more minutes.

   oven

5. For a soft crust, wrap the hot loaf in a clean tea towel; for a crisp one, leave it uncovered. Cool on a wire rack for 20 min before cutting, so the inside finishes setting. Serve in thick slices spread with the butter.

   Add in this stepSalted butter (to serve) 20 g