Restaurant-Style Solyanka with Smoked-Rib Broth
Slow-simmered beef shank and smoked pork rib broth, seared smoked meats and butter-fried pickles: solyanka the way Moscow restaurants serve it.
Method
Rinse the beef shank and smoked ribs, put them in a 3 L pot with the cold water and bring slowly to the boil over high heat, about . Starting cold draws out the proteins as grey foam: skim it all off with a ladle so the broth stays clear.
Add in this stepBeef shank (bone-in if possible) 250 gSmoked pork ribs 250 gCold water 1.4 L
high heatAdd the broth carrot and onion (peeled, left whole), the bay leaves and peppercorns. Set the lid ajar and simmer on low heat for , until the shank meat is fork-tender. The surface should barely tremble; boiling hard makes the broth cloudy.
Add in this stepCarrot (for the broth) ½Onion (for the broth) ½Bay leaves 1Black peppercorns 6
low heatLift out the meats and strain the broth through a fine sieve into a clean pot; discard the vegetables. You need about 350 ml of broth per serving; top up with water if short. Pull the shank and rib meat off the bones and cut it into thin strips.
Heat the oil in a 24 cm frying pan over medium-high heat. Add the ham and smoked sausage strips in a single layer and fry for , turning once, until the edges are browned and slightly crisp. Browning deepens the smoky flavour. Tip them onto a plate.
Add in this stepSunflower oil 1 tbspCooked ham 70 gSmoked sausage (firm) 70 g
medium-high heatLower the same pan to medium heat, add the butter and the thinly sliced onion and cook for until deep golden. Add the pickle strips and tomato paste and fry for more, stirring, until the paste turns brick red and the pickles are glossy.
Add in this stepButter 15 gOnion 1Brined dill pickles (salt-fermented) 2Tomato paste 1½ tbsp
medium heatBring the strained broth back to a simmer, then add all the meats, the onion and pickle mixture, the brine, olives and capers. Simmer on medium-low heat for without boiling. Add pepper, taste, and only then add salt if needed.
Add in this stepPickle brine 60 mlPitted black olives 10Capers 2 tspGround black pepper to tasteSalt to taste
medium-low heatTurn off the heat, cover and rest for . Serve in warmed bowls with a lemon slice, a spoonful of sour cream and plenty of dill.
Add in this stepThin lemon slices 2Sour cream (full-fat) 2 tbspFresh dill, chopped 2 tbsp
Cook's tip
If you cannot find smoked ribs, use the same weight of smoked ham hock or smoked bacon. The broth keeps 3 days in the fridge; lift off the set fat before using. Warm the bowls with hot water so the soup stays hot to the last spoonful.
Cooking it at camp
Make and strain the broth at home and carry it chilled in a sealed bottle in the cooler; a 2-hour simmer is impractical on a camp burner. At camp, brown the meats and fry the pickles in the pot, pour in the broth and simmer.