Lard-Fried Double-Dredged Chicken with Peppered Cream Gravy

Method

1. Whisk the buttermilk, salt, hot sauce and smoked paprika until the salt dissolves, then drop in the smashed garlic. Add the chicken, turn to coat, cover and refrigerate for 12 hours (overnight), up to 24 hours. The longer brine seasons the meat deeply and tenderizes it.

   Add in this stepButtermilk 400 mlSalt (for the brine) 10 gHot sauce 2½ tspSmoked paprika (for the brine) 1 tspGarlic cloves, smashed 3Bone-in, skin-on chicken thighs and drumsticks 600 g

2. Take the chicken out 30 minutes before frying. In a wide bowl, whisk the flour, cornstarch, baking powder, salt, black pepper, paprika, garlic powder, onion powder, thyme and cayenne. Drizzle 3 tablespoons of the brine over the mixture and rub it between your fingertips into pea-sized clumps. The baking powder makes the crust puff and blister as it fries.

   Add in this stepAll-purpose flour 170 gCornstarch 3 tbspBaking powder 1 tspSalt (for the dredge) 1½ tspCoarsely ground black pepper 1½ tspSweet paprika 1½ tspGarlic powder ¾ tspOnion powder ¾ tspDried thyme ½ tspCayenne pepper ½ tsp

3. Double-dredge each piece: let the excess brine drip off, press it into the flour, dip it back into the brine for a second, then press it into the flour again, packing the clumps on with your palm. Shake off loose flour and rest the pieces on a wire rack for 15 min, until no dry white patches remain. Discard the leftover brine and wash your hands and tools.

4. Put the oil and lard in a heavy 22 cm pot (cast iron or enameled is ideal): the fat should be at least 4 cm deep but fill no more than half the pot. Heat over medium-high heat for about 12 min, until the lard has melted and a thermometer reads 170°C. Keep the lid and a dry towel within reach and keep water well away.

   Add in this stepNeutral oil for frying 1.2 LLard 300 g

   medium-high heat

5. Fry in 1 batch(es), lowering each piece in skin side down and away from you with long tongs; do not crowd. The double coat is thick, so fry a little cooler than usual: keep the fat at 155–160°C by adjusting the heat (around medium heat). Fry for 15 min per batch, turning every 3–4 minutes, until deep mahogany and very crisp. It is done when the thickest piece reads 80°C next to (not touching) the bone and the juices run clear; never take it out below 74°C. Rest on a wire rack and bring the fat back to 170°C before the next batch.

   medium heat

6. Gravy: turn off the heat under the pot and let the fat settle for a few minutes, then carefully ladle the measured amount of clear fat, along with some of the browned crumbs from the bottom, into a 18 cm frying pan. Over medium heat, whisk in the flour and cook for 1 min, until it smells nutty and turns pale beige. Pour in the milk a little at a time, whisking out lumps, and simmer for 5 min, until it coats the back of a spoon. Season with the salt and plenty of black pepper; it thickens as it stands, so loosen it with a splash of milk if needed.

   Add in this stepFrying fat (for the gravy) 1½ tbspAll-purpose flour (for the gravy) 1½ tbspWhole milk 250 mlSalt (for the gravy) 1 pinchCoarsely ground black pepper (for the gravy) ¾ tsp

   medium heat

7. By now the chicken has rested for at least 5 minutes. Sprinkle with a pinch of salt and serve the hot pepper gravy in a bowl for dipping or on the side, never poured over the crust.