Thieboudienne (Senegalese Fish and Rice)
Senegal's national dish: rof-stuffed fish and vegetables simmered in tomato broth, then rice cooked in that broth until a crisp crust forms underneath.
Method
Make the rof, the green stuffing: finely chop or pound the parsley, garlic and spring onions with the rof salt and pepper to a coarse paste. Cut two deep slits into each fish steak, push the rof into them and rub the rest over the fish. Cut the vegetables into large chunks of about 5 cm so they keep their shape during the long simmer. Rinse the rice in several changes of water until the water runs almost clear, then leave it to drain in a sieve.
Add in this stepFirm white fish steaks, bone-in (grouper, sea bream or hake) 400 gFlat-leaf parsley (for the rof) 15 gGarlic cloves (for the rof) 3Spring onions (for the rof) 1Salt (for the rof) ¾ tspBlack pepper (for the rof) ½ tsp
Pat the fish dry with kitchen paper. Heat the oil in a 26 cm heavy pot over medium-high heat until a drop of water sizzles at once. Lower the fish in gently, laying it down away from you so the oil can't splash you, and fry for in total, turning once, until golden on both sides. If the pieces don't fit in one layer, fry them in two batches. The fish only needs colour here; it finishes cooking in the broth. Lift it onto a plate.
Add in this stepVegetable oil 5 tbsp
medium-high heatAdd the onion and green pepper to the same oil and cook over medium heat for , stirring, until soft and lightly golden. Scrape up the browned bits the fish left on the bottom; they carry a lot of flavour.
Add in this stepOnion, finely chopped 1Green bell pepper, finely chopped ½
medium heatStir in the tomato paste and fry over medium-low heat for , stirring often, until it turns from bright red to a deep brick red and the oil starts to separate at the edges. This gives the dish its rich colour and cooks out the sharp, raw taste of the paste. If it starts to catch, turn the heat down.
Add in this stepTomato paste 3 tbsp
medium-low heatPour in the water, add the stock cube, fish sauce and whole chilli, then the carrot, sweet potato, cabbage and eggplant. Bring to the boil over high heat, then turn down to medium heat and simmer with the lid half on for . Handle the chilli gently and keep it whole: if it bursts, the broth gets very hot.
Add in this stepWater 1,200 mlStock cube (fish or chicken) 1Fish sauce (stands in for guedj, Senegalese fermented dried fish) 1½ tspScotch bonnet chilli, whole 1Carrot, halved 1Sweet potato or cassava, in large chunks 150 gWhite cabbage, cut into wedges 200 gEggplant, in large chunks ½
high heat→medium heatReturn the fish to the pot with the okra and simmer over medium heat for , until the fish flakes easily at its thickest point and a knife slides into the carrot. Carefully lift the fish, vegetables and chilli into a bowl, spoon over a little broth and cover to keep warm. Leave about 380 ml of broth in the pot: ladle any extra into a small bowl to serve on the side, or top up with hot water if there is too little. Taste it; it should be well seasoned, slightly salty.
Add in this stepOkra (optional) 4
medium heatAdd the drained rice, season with salt, stir once and bring to the boil over medium-high heat. Level the rice, cover tightly with foil and the lid, turn down to low heat and cook for without stirring. It's done when the grains are tender and the broth has been absorbed; if they are still firm, sprinkle over 2 to 3 tablespoons of hot water and cook 5 minutes more. A golden crust, called xoon, forms on the bottom, and it's the best part.
Add in this stepBroken jasmine rice (or long-grain rice) 180 gSalt to taste
medium-high heat→low heatFor the sauce, loosen the tamarind paste with a little of the reserved broth until it pours; mash in some of the cooked chilli if you like heat. Pile the rice onto a large platter, arrange the vegetables and fish on top and break the crust off the bottom of the pot to serve alongside. Serve with the lime wedges and tamarind sauce.
Add in this stepTamarind paste (for the sauce) 1½ tspLime, cut into wedges ½
Cook's tip
Brick-red tomato and a well-seasoned broth are the secret, so taste the broth before the rice goes in: you can't season the rice afterwards. Broken rice is traditional because it drinks up the broth; long-grain rice works too but needs a little more broth. If you can find guedj (fermented dried fish) or nététou (fermented locust beans), add a small piece in step 5 instead of the fish sauce.
Cooking it at camp
It works on a sturdy stove with a wide, heavy pot; a thin camping pot scorches the rice before it cooks, so keep the flame very low and use a heat diffuser if you have one. Make the rof and cut the vegetables at home, and carry the fish on ice.