Tom Kha Gai with Quick Bone Stock and Charred Aromatics

Method

1. Pull the skin off the thighs, then run a small knife along the bone to free the meat. Cut the meat into 2–3 cm pieces and refrigerate it; keep the bones for stock. Wash the board, knife and your hands straight after handling raw chicken. Cut the coriander roots and stems off for the stock and save the leaves for garnish.

   Add in this stepBone-in chicken thighs, skin removed 500 g

2. Put the bones, water and coriander roots and stems in a 18 cm pot and bring to the boil on high heat. Skim off all the grey foam, turn down to low heat, half-cover and simmer for 20 min for a clear stock. A rolling boil makes it cloudy.

   Add in this stepWater 650 mlFresh coriander with roots and stems 6 g

   high heat→low heat

3. While the stock simmers, slice the galangal 2 mm thick, bash the lemongrass and cut it into 4 cm lengths, and halve the shallots with their skins on. Heat a dry pan with no oil on medium-high heat and char the three for 3 min, turning, until blackened in spots; this gives the soup a smoky depth. Peel the shallots once cool.

   Add in this stepGalangal 35 gLemongrass stalks 2Small shallots 2

   medium-high heat

4. Strain the stock, discard the bones and coriander, and pour it back into the pot. Add the coconut milk, the charred aromatics and the lime leaves (centre rib removed, torn), and infuse on medium-low heat for 8 min, steaming with just a tremble at the edges.

   Add in this stepCoconut milk (unsweetened) 400 mlMakrut lime leaves 6

   medium-low heat

5. Add the chicken and the torn oyster mushrooms and poach on low heat for 11 min without boiling: the surface should barely quiver, around 80–90 °C. This low heat is what keeps the chicken silky rather than tough. Cut the largest piece open to check it is white all the way through.

   Add in this stepOyster mushrooms 120 g

   low heat

6. Stir in the chilli paste, fish sauce and palm sugar, then turn the heat off (heat off). Add the lime juice and the chillies, crushed with the flat of a knife, and taste: sour first, then salt and a little sweetness, all wrapped in soft coconut.

   Add in this stepNam prik pao (Thai roasted chilli paste) 2 tspFish sauce 1½ tbspPalm sugar 1 tspFresh lime juice 2 tbspBird's eye chillies 2

   heat off

7. Ladle into warm bowls and top with the reserved coriander leaves. Little red pools of oil from the chilli paste on the surface are exactly right.

   Add in this stepFresh coriander with roots and stems 6 g