Whitebait Fritters
A West Coast New Zealand treasure: translucent baby fish caught in spring, bound with egg, fried in butter and eaten on buttered white bread with lemon.
Method
Drain the whitebait in a sieve, spread it on paper towel and press gently to dry it. Pick out any debris or weed. Wet whitebait makes a runny mix that spits in the pan; don't wash it much, so the delicate flavour stays.
In a bowl, beat the eggs with the salt, white pepper and flour with a fork until smooth. Purists use egg alone with no flour, but a little flour helps the fritters hold together the first time you make them.
Add in this stepEggs 2Salt 1 pinchWhite pepper 1 pinchPlain flour (optional) 1 tbsp
Add the whitebait and fold it in gently. The egg should only just coat the fish: the whitebait is the star.
Add in this stepWhitebait (thawed if frozen) 200 g
Put a 24 cm frying pan over medium heat and melt half the butter with half the oil; the oil stops the butter burning so fast. It's ready when the butter foam subsides and it sizzles. Keep the rest of the butter and oil for later batches.
Add in this stepButter (for frying) 20 gVegetable oil 1 tsp
medium heatDrop in about 2 heaped tablespoons of mixture per fritter and spread it to about 8 cm across, leaving space between them. Cook the first side for , until set at the edges and golden underneath, then flip and cook more. They are done when all the fish has turned white and opaque and the centre feels springy. Cook the rest the same way, adding the remaining butter and oil.
Butter the bread, lay a fritter on each slice, squeeze over lemon and eat straight away. Folding it in half like a sandwich is the West Coast way.
Add in this stepSlices of white bread 4Butter (for the bread) 20 gLemon ½
Cook's tip
If you can't get New Zealand whitebait, use frozen whitebait, icefish or shirasu (tiny baby anchovies). Thaw frozen fish slowly in the fridge and dry it well. Don't overcook: the fritters turn rubbery.
Cooking it at camp
This is natural camp food: a camp stove and a cast-iron pan are all you need. Keep the whitebait in a sealed tub in the cooler, not touching the ice, and beat the eggs at home and carry them in a jar. Wind makes butter burn quickly, so use a windscreen.