Ichiban Dashi Yosenabe with Ginger Chicken Tsukune

Method

1. Put the water and kombu in a 22 cm pot and leave it in the fridge or a cool place for 1 h. Cold brewing draws out clean savoury flavour with no bitterness.

   Add in this stepWater 800 mlKombu, thick 12 g

2. Cut the fish into 4 cm pieces, sprinkle the salt evenly over both sides and leave for 10 min. Meanwhile bring a small pot of water to a rolling boil on high heat. Pat off the moisture that beads on the fish, put it in a sieve and pour the boiling water over it until the surface turns white, then plunge it into iced water and drain. This shimofuri step removes fishy smells and stray scales and keeps the broth clear.

   Add in this stepSea bream or cod fillet 160 gSalt 0.4 tsp

   high heat

3. Set the kombu pot on medium-low heat and warm it slowly for 12 min. When the kombu swells and small bubbles form at the edge, lift it out just before boiling. Let the water come to the boil once, turn off the heat, add the katsuobushi and leave for 2 min, then strain through a sieve lined with kitchen paper without pressing. A clear golden broth means success.

   Add in this stepKatsuobushi (fine bonito flakes) 16 g

   medium-low heat

4. In a bowl, combine the minced chicken, finely grated ginger, sliced spring onions, starch and soy sauce. Knead with your hand for 1 min until sticky and pale; this makes springy meatballs that won't fall apart.

   Add in this stepMinced chicken (thigh is juicier) 160 gFresh ginger 8 gSpring onions 10 gPotato starch 2 tspSoy sauce (for the meatballs) 1 tsp

5. Pour the strained first dashi into the pot and season with the sake, mirin, light soy sauce and the remaining salt. Warm it on medium heat, then scoop the chicken mixture into 3 cm balls with two spoons and drop them in, together with the cabbage stems and shiitake. Simmer for 6 min; the meatballs are done when they float and feel firm. Skim off any foam.

   Add in this stepSake for cooking 2 tbspMirin 1½ tbspLight soy sauce (usukuchi) 1½ tbspSalt 0.4 tspNapa cabbage 150 gFresh shiitake mushrooms 4

   medium heat

6. Arrange the prepared fish, prawns, scallops, clams, tofu, long onion, cabbage leaves and enoki in neat groups. Cover and simmer gently on medium-low heat for 6 min; a hard boil breaks the fish and clouds the broth. It is ready when the clams have opened and the scallops are white just on the outside. Discard any closed clams and add the shungiku right before eating.

   Add in this stepHead-on prawns 4Fresh scallops 3Clams, purged of sand 200 gGrilled tofu (yaki-dofu) or firm tofu 150 gJapanese long green onion (or a thin leek) 1Napa cabbage 150 gEnoki mushrooms 100 gShungiku (chrysanthemum greens) 60 g

   medium-low heat

7. Grate the daikon, squeeze it lightly and mix in the chili flakes to make pale-red momiji-oroshi. Pour the ponzu into small dishes, top with the momiji-oroshi and a little grated yuzu zest. Dip the ingredients in the ponzu and sip the broth on its own.

   Add in this stepDaikon radish 120 gChili flakes ¼ tspPonzu 4 tbspYuzu zest (or lemon zest) to taste