Japanese Wafu Soy-Butter Mushroom Aglio Olio

Method

1. Remove any sprout from the garlic and slice it 2 mm thick; break the chilies into 2–3 pieces. Don't wash the mushrooms; wipe off any dirt with paper towel. Remove the shiitake stems and slice the caps 5 mm thick; slice the button mushrooms 5 mm thick too. Thinly slice the scallions.

2. Bring the water to a boil in a covered 20 cm pot over high heat, about 11 min, then add the coarse salt. It's a little less salt than usual because the soy sauce seasons the dish later.

   Add in this stepWater for the pasta 2½ LCoarse salt (for the pasta water) 20 g

   high heat

3. Add the spaghetti, stir for the first minute, then cook over medium-high heat for 8 min, 2 minutes less than the packet says; it finishes in the pan. Before draining, scoop out a mugful of cooking water.

   Add in this stepSpaghetti 200 g

   medium-high heat

4. As soon as the spaghetti goes in, put the olive oil and sliced garlic in a cold 24 cm frying pan, set it over medium-low heat and cook gently for 5 min. When the garlic is pale gold, add the chili, wait 10 seconds, then lift the garlic and chili out onto a small plate. That way the garlic won't burn when you turn up the heat next.

   Add in this stepExtra-virgin olive oil 3 tbspGarlic cloves 3Dried red chilies 1

   medium-low heat

5. Set the pan of garlic-scented oil over medium-high heat and add the mushrooms in a single layer. Leave them untouched for 2 min until golden underneath, then stir-fry for 1 min 30 sec more, until they have softened and their edges are brown.

   Add in this stepFresh shiitake mushrooms 4Button mushrooms 100 g

   medium-high heat

6. Lower the heat to medium heat and add the spaghetti, 80 ml of pasta water and the reserved garlic and chili. Pour the soy sauce onto the hot pan edge rather than the middle so it sizzles and toasts, add the butter and toss for 1 min 30 sec, until a glossy sauce clings to the pasta.

   Add in this stepSoy sauce 2½ tspButter 15 g

   medium heat

7. Plate, top with plenty of scallions and bonito flakes, add a grind of black pepper and serve right away. Watching the bonito flakes dance in the heat is part of the fun.

   Add in this stepScallions, thinly sliced 2 tbspBonito flakes (katsuobushi) 2 gBlack pepper to taste