Whipped-Egg Avgolemono with Clear Homemade Stock

Method

1. Put the thighs, wings and cold water in a 22 cm pot and bring slowly up to a simmer over medium heat, taking about 18 min. Starting cold and heating gently makes the proteins gather as foam on top; skim it off thoroughly as it rises.

   Add in this stepBone-in chicken thighs, skin removed 450 gChicken wings 250 gCold water 1,400 ml

   medium heat

2. Add the onion (halved and browned cut side down in a dry pan for colour and aroma, but not blackened), carrot, celery, peppercorns, bay and salt. Simmer uncovered on low heat for 1 h, so the surface barely trembles. A rolling boil emulsifies the fat and clouds the stock.

   Add in this stepOnion 1Carrot 1Celery stalk 1Black peppercorns 6Bay leaf 1Salt 1 tsp

   low heat

3. Strain the stock through a fine sieve lined with kitchen paper back into the pot and spoon off the fat on top. You want about 400 ml per person; top up with water if needed. Pull the thigh meat off the bones in large shreds; the wings were for flavour, so enjoy them separately as a snack.

4. Bring the stock back up, add the rinsed rice and cook over medium heat for 15 min, then return the chicken. Taste and season; the eggs will soften the salt, so leave it slightly assertive.

   Add in this stepShort-grain rice 50 g

   medium heat

5. Separate the eggs. In a clean bowl, whisk the whites for 2 min 30 sec to soft peaks, then whisk in the yolks one at a time and pour in the lemon juice in a thin stream. This is the way Greek grandmothers do it: the sauce is lighter and far less likely to split. Then whisk in 3 or 4 ladlefuls of hot stock, slowly, to temper it.

   Add in this stepEggs, at room temperature 2Fresh lemon juice 40 ml

6. Turn the pot down to low heat, pour in the egg mixture and swirl the pot or stir with a wooden spoon for 2 min, until the soup turns creamy and is steaming (about 75 to 80 °C). Turn off the heat straight away; the moment it bubbles, the egg will split.

   low heat

7. Ladle into warm bowls, finish with lemon zest, dill and pepper, and add a few drops of olive oil.

   Add in this stepLemon zest 1 tspChopped dill 1 tbspExtra-virgin olive oil, to finish 2 tspBlack pepper to taste