Chakhokhbili (Georgian Chicken and Tomato Stew)

Method

1. Cut the chicken into large pieces at the joints and pat it very dry with kitchen paper; damp chicken steams instead of browning. Halve the tomatoes and grate them on a box grater, throwing away the skins. Slice the onions into thin half-moons, mince the garlic, seed and slice the chilli, and finely chop the herbs.

2. Heat a heavy 24 cm pot over medium-high heat, then lay the chicken in it skin-side down in a single layer, with no oil. Leave it alone until the fat renders and the skin releases by itself, then turn once and brown the other side, 10 min in total. Brown in two rounds if the pot is crowded, and keep a lid half over the pot because the fat spits.

   Add in this stepBone-in chicken thighs and drumsticks, skin on 700 g

   medium-high heat

3. Lift the chicken onto a plate. Add the butter and onions to the chicken fat in the pot and cook over medium heat for 8 min, stirring, until the onions are soft and lightly golden at the edges. Scrape up the browned bits on the bottom as the onions release their moisture; that is where the flavour is.

   Add in this stepButter 15 gOnions (medium) 2

   medium heat

4. Add the grated tomatoes, tomato paste, chilli and salt, then return the chicken and any juices from the plate. Bring to a boil over medium heat, then turn down to low heat, cover and simmer for 25 min, stirring once or twice so nothing catches. The chicken should be almost submerged; add 2–3 tbsp water if it looks too thick.

   Add in this stepRipe tomatoes 700 gTomato paste 1 tbspGreen chilli (to taste) ½Salt ¾ tsp

   medium heat→low heat

5. Uncover, stir in the garlic, khmeli suneli and pepper, and simmer over medium-low heat for 6 min more, until the sauce coats a spoon. The chicken is done when the juices from the thickest piece run clear and the meat comes easily off the bone (at least 75 °C inside). Taste and adjust the salt.

   Add in this stepGarlic cloves 3Khmeli suneli (Georgian spice blend) 1 tspBlack pepper to taste

   medium-low heat

6. Turn off the heat, fold in the coriander, basil and parsley, cover and leave for 5 min so the herbs perfume the sauce. Serve with crusty bread (Georgian shoti or a baguette), rice or polenta.

   Add in this stepCoriander (cilantro) 15 gBasil (purple basil if you can find it) 10 gFlat-leaf parsley 10 g