Vongole Chawanmushi with Garlic-Butter Clams (Japanese × Italian)
Clams steamed open in olive oil, garlic and white wine; their juices mixed with dashi into a silky custard and topped with buttery parsley clams.
Method
If the clams aren't pre-purged, soak them in sea-salty water (1 tbsp salt per 500 ml water) in a dark place for at least 30 minutes so they spit out their sand. Rub the shells together under running water. Throw away any that are cracked or stay open when tapped.
Add in this stepClams in the shell (such as Manila clams) 240 g
Put the olive oil, thinly sliced garlic and chilli flakes in a 24 cm pan and cook gently on low heat for until the garlic is pale gold. Add the clams and wine, turn up to medium-high heat, cover and cook for , switching off as soon as the shells open. Discard any that stay shut. Lift out the clams and strain the juices through a sieve lined with paper towel to catch any grit, then let them cool.
Add in this stepExtra-virgin olive oil 1 tbspGarlic cloves 2Dried chilli flakes ½ tspDry white wine 50 ml
low heat→medium-high heatCombine the cooled clam juices with the dashi (the juices are salty, so taste and add only a tiny amount of salt). Beat the eggs without making foam, mix in the liquid and pour through a fine sieve. Pick the meat from half of the clams and put it in the bottom of the cups, pour in the custard to 80% full and cover with foil. Keep the other clams in their shells.
Add in this stepEggs 2Dashi, cooled 240 mlSalt 1 pinch
Bring the water in a 20 cm steamer to a full steam, put in the cups and steam on high heat for , then turn down to low heat, set the lid slightly ajar and steam for more. It is done when the centre wobbles and a skewer brings up clear liquid.
high heat→low heatMeanwhile, put the butter and the clams in their shells back in the clam pan and warm on medium heat for , stirring in the parsley. Spoon the clams and buttery juices over the set custards and finish with black pepper and a little lemon zest.
Add in this stepButter 10 gChopped flat-leaf parsley 1 tbspBlack pepper to tasteGrated lemon zest 1 pinch
medium heat
Cook's tip
Clam juices vary a lot in saltiness, so always taste before seasoning. Sake works instead of wine too. Serve with a slice of baguette to mop up the garlic butter: it tastes just like spaghetti alle vongole.
Cooking it at camp
At a campsite, steam the clams open with wine in a pot on the burner, rinse the same pot and steam the custards on low with a cloth and 2 cm of water. Carry the clams in the cooler and cook them the day you arrive.