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Pakistan, Asia · Chicken Karahi

Desi Ghee Chicken Karahi with Charcoal Smoke

Karahi the way roadside dhabas make it: freshly toasted spices, grated tomatoes and ghee, finished with a burst of charcoal smoke (dhungar) for that live-fire flavour.

ServingsServes 2
Total cooking time45 min
Salting+ 15 min
DifficultyHard
About servingsOnly smoke with the window open and the extractor fan on, and keep it brief: charcoal gives off carbon monoxide. Handle hot coal with tongs only, and drown it in water until fully out before throwing it away. Chicken must reach 75 °C at the centre.

Method

  1. Toast the cumin, coriander seeds and peppercorns in a dry pan on low heat for , shaking, until fragrant, then tip out, cool and crush coarsely in a mortar. Whole spices toasted this way are far more aromatic than ready-ground.

    Add in this stepCumin seeds ¾ tspCoriander seeds 1¼ tspBlack peppercorns ½ tsp

    low heat
  2. Rub the chicken with part of the salt and leave for . Meanwhile halve the tomatoes and grate them on a box grater, discarding the skins; pound the garlic and 60% of the ginger to a paste; cut the rest of the ginger into fine matchsticks and slit the chillies.

    Add in this stepBone-in chicken (thighs and drumsticks), cut small 500 gSalt 0.4 tsp

  3. Pat the chicken very dry. Heat part of the ghee and the oil in a 28 cm karahi or wok on high heat until shimmering (about 180 °C), lower the chicken in away from you and sear for , stirring, until golden in patches. It will spit, so use a long spatula.

    Add in this stepGhee 1¾ tbspVegetable oil 1½ tbsp

    high heat
  4. Add the garlic-ginger paste and fry on medium-high heat for to cook off the raw smell.

    Add in this stepGarlic cloves 6Fresh ginger 11 g

    medium-high heat
  5. Add the grated tomatoes, the rest of the salt, the chilli powder, chilli flakes, turmeric and toasted spices, and stir-fry on medium-high heat for without stopping, until the moisture has gone, the masala clings to the chicken and red oil separates at the edges. Add 2 tbsp water and scrape if it catches; cut into the biggest piece to check it's cooked through.

    Add in this stepRipe tomatoes 3Salt 0.6 tspKashmiri chilli powder ¾ tspCrushed red chilli flakes 1 tspGround turmeric ¼ tsp

    medium-high heat
  6. Turn down to medium-low heat, stir in the whisked yogurt a little at a time, add half the chillies and cook for , until the sauce turns glossy.

    Add in this stepPlain yogurt 3 tbspGreen chillies 1½

    medium-low heat
  7. Add the remaining ghee, the garam masala, ginger matchsticks, the rest of the chillies and the coriander, cover and leave on low heat for . Turn off the heat.

    Add in this stepGhee ¾ tbspGaram masala ½ tspFresh ginger 7.2 gGreen chillies 1½Fresh coriander (cilantro), chopped 2 tbsp

    low heat
  8. Charcoal smoke (dhungar): hold the charcoal with tongs over a gas flame on high heat for , until it glows red all over with a coat of white ash. Set a small foil cup (or a piece of onion skin) in the middle of the karahi, place the coal in it, pour the ghee over and, as soon as it smokes, cover tightly for . Uncover, lift out the coal and cup with tongs and drop them into water. Serve with lemon wedges.

    Add in this stepLump charcoal piece (about 4 cm, for smoking) 1Ghee (for smoking) 1 tspLemon ½

    high heat

Cook's tip

Grated tomatoes cook down fast and skin-free for a smooth, restaurant-style masala. Ghee's nutty flavour matters; if you use butter instead, mix it half and half with oil because it burns easily. If smoking feels like too much, skip it: the karahi is still excellent.

Cooking it at camp

With a campfire or grill going, the dhungar is actually easier: just lift out one glowing coal with tongs. Over charcoal the wok gets very hot, so move it towards the edge to control the heat, and keep the chicken below 5 °C in the cooler.