Dorayaki with Homemade Tsubuan
Wagashi-shop style: chunky red bean paste simmered from scratch, sandwiched in pancakes deepened in colour and aroma with honey and a drop of soy sauce.
Method
Rinse the beans, put them in a 16 cm pot and cover with water by 3 cm. Bring to the boil on high heat, boil for , then tip into a sieve, discard the water and rinse. This first boil removes the beans' astringency.
Add in this stepDried adzuki beans 80 g
high heatReturn the beans to the pot, cover with fresh water by 3 cm, bring to the boil on high heat, then turn down to low heat and simmer gently for . Top up with water as needed so the beans stay covered. They are done when one crushes easily between your fingers.
high heat→low heatPour off the water until it is just level with the beans. Add the sugar in two lots, plus the salt, and cook on medium-low heat for , scraping the bottom with a spatula. When a line drawn across the bottom stays open for 2–3 seconds, turn off the heat; it thickens more as it cools, so stop while it is still a little loose. Spread on a wide tray, press cling film onto the surface and leave to cool.
Add in this stepSugar (for the bean paste) 70 gSalt (for the bean paste) 1 pinch
medium-low heatWhile the paste cools, make the batter. Whisk the eggs, sugar, honey, mirin and soy sauce for until the sugar dissolves and the mixture is foamy. The soy sauce isn't for saltiness; it adds a toasty aroma and deeper browning.
Add in this stepEggs 2Sugar (for the batter) 70 gHoney 1 tbspMirin 1 tspSoy sauce ½ tsp
Sift in the flour and baking powder and mix only until no dry flour remains, then cover and rest at room temperature for .
Add in this stepCake flour 110 gBaking powder 1 tsp
Whisk in the water a tablespoon at a time until the batter falls in a slow ribbon, like thick yoghurt.
Add in this stepWater 2 tbsp
Heat a non-stick pan on medium-low for 2 minutes, wipe with a little oil and then wipe almost all of it off. Turn down to low heat, pour 2 tablespoons of batter from 10 cm high onto one spot to make a 9 cm circle, and cook in 4 batches. After , when the bubbles have popped and the edges look dry, flip and cook for . Keep the cooked pancakes under a damp cloth.
Add in this stepNeutral oil (for greasing the pan) ½ tsp
low heatSandwich a generous mound of the cooled bean paste between matched pairs, domed in the centre, and press the edges together. Wrap each in cling film and leave for so the pancake and filling meld and turn extra moist.
Cook's tip
There's no need to soak the beans, but a pressure cooker cuts the simmering to about 15 minutes. The bean paste keeps for 5 days in the fridge or a month frozen in portions. Over-reduced paste sets hard once cool, so stop while it still looks moist.
Cooking it at camp
The bean paste takes time, so make it at home. Cook the pancakes at home too and wrap them in cling film, and at the campsite all you have to do is fill them. If you cook the pancakes on site, shelter the burner from wind, use a non-stick pan, keep the flame very low and rotate the pan.