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Hungary, Europe · Hungarian Goulash Soup

Beef Shin Goulash with Csipetke

An authentic, deeper goulash: beef shin browned in smoked bacon fat, a broth built on marrow bone and root vegetables, and hand-pinched Hungarian csipetke dumplings.

ServingsServes 2
Total cooking time2 h 40 min
DifficultyHard

Method

  1. Make the csipetke dough first. Mix the flour, beaten egg and salt and knead for into a stiff, smooth dough that doesn't stick to your hands; if it crumbles, add only a few drops of water. Wrap it and leave at room temperature while the soup cooks.

    Add in this stepPlain flour (for the csipetke) 50 gBeaten egg (for the csipetke; 1 large egg is about 55 g) 30 gSalt (for the csipetke) 1 pinch

  2. Put the bacon in a heavy 22 cm pot and cook on medium-low heat for , until the fat runs and the pieces turn golden. Lift out the crisp bacon (it's the garnish) and leave the fat in the pot.

    Add in this stepSmoked bacon in a piece, cut into 5 mm dice 50 g

    medium-low heat
  3. Cut the beef into 3 cm chunks and dry it thoroughly. Heat the bacon fat on medium-high heat and brown the beef in 1 batch(es), in a single layer, for in total, until deep brown on all sides. Crowding the pot steams the meat and it won't colour. Set the browned beef aside on a plate.

    Add in this stepBeef shin 350 g

    medium-high heat
  4. Add the chopped onion to the same pot and cook on medium heat for , until deep golden; its moisture lets you scrape up all the brown bits stuck to the bottom. Add the crushed garlic, lightly cracked caraway and marjoram and stir for 1 minute.

    Add in this stepLarge onion 1Garlic cloves 2Caraway seeds ½ tspDried marjoram ½ tsp

    medium heat
  5. Take the pot off the heat and stir in the sweet and hot paprika and the tomato purée for 30 seconds (over the flame, paprika burns and turns bitter). Return the beef with its juices, add the marrow bone, water, bay leaves and half the salt, put the pot back on high heat and bring to the boil (about ). Skim carefully, turn down to low heat and simmer with the lid ajar for , until the beef is almost tender.

    Add in this stepSweet paprika 3 tspHot paprika ½ tspTomato purée (paste) 1 tspBeef marrow bone 250 gWater 1,000 mlBay leaves 1Salt ½ tsp

    high heat→low heat
  6. Cut the carrot, parsnip and celery into 1 cm pieces, the potatoes into 2 cm cubes, the pepper into strips and the tomato into dice, and add them with the rest of the salt. Simmer on medium-low heat for , until the potatoes are tender. Meanwhile, flatten the csipetke dough between your palms to 1–2 mm and pinch off pea-sized pieces onto a floured plate.

    Add in this stepMedium carrot 1Parsnip or parsley root ½Celery stick (or a little celeriac) 1Medium potato 1½Green or pale yellow bell pepper 1Medium tomato 1Salt ½ tsp

    medium-low heat
  7. Lift out the bone, scoop any marrow into the soup with a small spoon, and discard the bone and bay leaves. Bring the soup up to medium heat, drop in the csipetke and cook for , until they float and are cooked through. Taste for seasoning, ladle into bowls and top with the crisp bacon and sliced fresh chilli.

    Add in this stepFresh hot green chilli, to serve 1

    medium heat

Cook's tip

Dry meat browns; wet meat steams, so pat it dry right before searing. If the broth is too thin, simmer uncovered for 10 minutes before adding the csipetke. Small pasta can stand in for csipetke, but homemade ones have a far better chew.

Cooking it at camp

Cooked in a cast-iron kettle (bogrács) over a wood fire, this is goulash at its most traditional. Make the csipetke dough at home and pack it wrapped in the cooler; carry the marrow bone frozen, so it doubles as an ice pack. If the fire is fierce, raise the kettle or rake the embers aside to keep a gentle simmer.