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Hungary, Europe · Halászlé (Hungarian Fisherman's Soup)

Szeged-Style Halászlé with Two Fish and Sieved Stock

The river-town classic: an hour-long stock of fish heads pressed through a sieve until velvety, a hard boil to bind the paprika, then carp and catfish poached in it.

ServingsServes 2
Total cooking time1 h 38 min
DifficultyHard
About servingsEven scored carp contains small bones. Eat slowly, and check portions carefully for children.

Method

  1. Score the carp fillet crosswise on the flesh side every 3 to 4 mm almost down to the skin, so the fine bones are cut. Cut both fillets into 5 cm pieces, sprinkle with part of the salt and refrigerate. Rinse the heads and bones and pull out the gills.

    Add in this stepCarp fillet, skin on 240 gCatfish fillet (or pike-perch) 200 gSalt ½ tsp

  2. Put the heads, bones and tails, the roughly cut onions, half the pepper, half the tomato and the cold water in a 22 cm pot. Bring slowly to a boil on high heat, skim thoroughly, then lower to low heat and simmer uncovered for . The onion should almost dissolve and the stock should taste rich.

    Add in this stepFish heads, bones and tails (carp is ideal) 500 gOnions 2Hungarian wax peppers (or light green peppers) ½Ripe tomatoes ½Cold water 1,400 ml

    high heat→low heat

  3. Pour everything into a sieve set over a large bowl. Pick out the big bones, then press the onion, pepper, tomato and every scrap of soft fish flesh through the sieve with a ladle until only dry bones remain. The stock should look slightly thick and cloudy; this sieving step is the heart of the Szeged style.

  4. Pour the sieved stock back into the rinsed pot and reduce on medium heat for , uncovered, to concentrate it. Take the pot off the heat, whisk in the sweet and hot paprika and the remaining salt until no lumps remain.

    Add in this stepSweet Hungarian paprika (fresh) 2 tbspHot paprika ¾ tspSalt 1 tsp

    medium heat

  5. Add the rest of the pepper in rings and the rest of the tomato in wedges. Return to high heat and boil hard for ; the rolling boil emulsifies the paprika's natural oil into the broth so it turns glossy and deep red.

    Add in this stepHungarian wax peppers (or light green peppers) ½Ripe tomatoes ½

    high heat

  6. Lower the heat to medium-low heat, slide in the carp and catfish pieces skin side down and cook for , swirling the pot by its handles instead of stirring. The fish is done when the flesh is opaque right through and flakes easily.

    medium-low heat

  7. Taste and adjust the salt. Serve in warm deep plates, fish on top, with the fresh chilli and crusty bread on the side.

    Add in this stepFresh hot chilli (to serve) 1Slices of crusty white bread 2

Cook's tip

Use two or three kinds of fish for a rounder taste: carp for richness, catfish or pike-perch for firm, bone-free pieces. If you can find carp roe or milt, poach it with the fillets; Hungarians consider it the best bite. Sweet paprika loses colour and aroma within months, so buy a fresh tin.

Cooking it at camp

This is the cauldron soup of Hungarian riverbanks. Over a fire or a sturdy camp stove, use a heavy pot, sieve the stock into a second pot, and keep the fish chilled until it goes in. Bring a sturdy sieve and a ladle.