Harees
The Emirati classic of Ramadan and Eid: whole wheat and chicken simmered for hours, then beaten into a smooth, stretchy porridge and topped with ghee.
Method
Rinse the wheat several times until the water runs clear, then soak it in plenty of cold water for (overnight). Plump, soaked grains cook faster and break down properly.
Add in this stepHarees wheat (hulled whole wheat berries) 150 g
Drain the wheat. Put the wheat, chicken and water (keep about a cupful aside) in a 22 cm heavy pot and bring to the boil over high heat. Once it boils, spend skimming off the grey foam with a ladle.
Add in this stepBone-in chicken thighs (or lamb) 350 gWater 1¼ L
high heatSet the lid slightly ajar, turn down to low heat and simmer for . Wheat sticks easily, so every 15 minutes stir with a wooden spoon, scraping the bottom, and if it gets too thick add some of the reserved water, heated. It's ready when the grains have burst open and the chicken falls off the bone.
Add in this stepWater ¼ L
low heatLift out the chicken, let it cool a little, remove the bones and skin, shred the meat by hand and return it to the pot. Stir in the salt. Check carefully that no small bones are left.
Add in this stepSalt ¾ tsp
Over low heat, beat the mixture hard with a wooden spoon or potato masher for , until the wheat and meat merge into a smooth, sticky porridge. It's done when it stretches in long strands as you lift the spoon. If you use a stick blender, pulse just a few seconds at a time to keep some texture.
low heatMelt the ghee in a small pan over low heat for . Spoon the harees into bowls, make a hollow in the middle with the back of a spoon, pour in the melted ghee and dust with a little cinnamon if you like. Eat hot.
Add in this stepGhee 2 tbspGround cinnamon (optional) ¼ tsp
low heat
Cook's tip
A pressure cooker cuts step 3 to 45–60 minutes at high pressure (release the steam, then beat). If you can't find harees wheat, use hulled or pearled wheat berries. It firms up as it cools; loosen it with a little hot water when reheating.
Cooking it at camp
It needs hours of simmering, so the practical camp option is to cook it at home up to step 3 and carry it in a vacuum flask or insulated food jar. At the campsite, reheat it in a pot over a low burner while you beat it, then melt the ghee on top. Or leave a cast-iron pot simmering beside the campfire all day.