Hoppers (Appa) and Egg Hoppers
Sri Lanka's favourite breakfast: a fermented rice-flour and coconut batter swirled in a round pan into bowls with lacy, crisp edges and soft, spongy centres.
Method
In a bowl of at least 1.5 L, mix the rice flour, yeast and sugar, then add the warm water and half the coconut milk and stir into a thick, lump-free batter. Cover and leave somewhere warm for . It is ready when it has nearly doubled, the surface is full of small bubbles and it smells pleasantly sour. In a cool kitchen you can leave it overnight.
Add in this stepRice flour (fine, dry) 130 gInstant dry yeast ½ tspSugar 1 tspWarm water (about 35 °C) 120 mlCoconut milk 120 ml
Gently stir in the rest of the coconut milk and the salt until the batter runs like pouring cream. Salt slows the yeast, so it always goes in after fermenting. If it is too thick, add water a tablespoon at a time. Let it sit for .
Add in this stepCoconut milk 120 mlSalt (for the batter) ½ tsp
Meanwhile, make pol sambol: chop the red onion very finely and put it in a bowl with the coconut, chilli flakes and salt. Squeeze in the lime juice and rub everything together with your fingertips for about a minute until the coconut turns pale orange. Taste and adjust with salt and lime.
Add in this stepGrated coconut (unsweetened; frozen fresh is best) 60 gRed onion 30 gChilli flakes 1 tspSalt (for the sambol) 2 pinchLime ½
Heat a hopper pan (appachatti) or a small 18 cm wok over medium heat heat for . Wipe the whole inside thinly with a paper towel dipped in oil; pooled oil makes the batter slide instead of clinging to the sides.
Add in this stepVegetable oil (for greasing) 1 tbsp
medium heatPour about 50 ml of batter into the centre, then immediately lift the pan by its handles and swirl it in one big circle so a thin layer climbs up the sides and the rest gathers in the middle. Return it to the heat, cover and cook on medium-low heat for about per hopper, until the edges are golden and crisp and the centre has no wet shine. Loosen the rim with a spoon and lift it out. Make 6 plain hoppers this way, re-oiling the pan every 2 or 3.
medium-low heatFor egg hoppers, swirl the batter as before, crack an egg into the centre straight away, add pepper, cover and cook on medium-low heat for , until the white is completely set and the yolk still wobbles. Give it 1 to 2 minutes more for a firm yolk. Make 2.
Add in this stepEggs 2Black pepper 1 pinch
medium-low heatHoppers lose their crunch within minutes, so serve each one as it comes out of the pan. Tear off the crisp edges and scoop up pol sambol; break the yolk of an egg hopper and eat it with the soft centre. Any curry on the side is welcome for dipping.
Cook's tip
If the batter slides instead of sticking, the pan is not hot enough or too oily; a soggy centre means the batter is too thick or the heat is too high. No hopper pan? Use a deep, round 18–20 cm mini wok or non-stick saucepan. In Sri Lanka a little Maldive fish is often added to the pol sambol.
Cooking it at camp
Ferment the batter at home and carry it in a sealed container in the cooler; add the salt and remaining coconut milk at the campsite. A small wok with a lid works on a camping stove; shield the flame from the wind or the centres will stay raw.