Cajun Brown Jambalaya with Shrimp-Shell Stock
Country-style Louisiana jambalaya with no tomato: deeply browned andouille and chicken give the colour, and rice simmers in stock infused with shrimp shells.
Method
Peel and devein the shrimp, keeping the shells and heads, and refrigerate the meat. Put the shells in a 18 cm saucepan with the chicken stock and some of the bay leaves, bring to the boil over high heat, then turn down to low heat and simmer for . Strain, discard the shells and keep the stock warm.
Add in this stepChicken stock 550 mlBay leaves 1
high heat→low heatMeanwhile slice the andouille into 1 cm half-moons, cut the chicken into 3 cm pieces, dice the onion, celery and pepper into 1 cm pieces and mince the garlic. Heat the oil in a 24 cm cast-iron pot over medium heat and cook the andouille for until it has rendered plenty of fat and the edges are dark brown. Lift it out.
Add in this stepVegetable oil 1 tbspAndouille (or spicy smoked sausage) 175 g
medium heatSpread the chicken in a single layer in the fat, season with part of the salt and sear over medium-high heat for , turning only when each side is deep brown. A brown crust (fond) forms on the bottom of the pot; it is what gives this jambalaya its colour and flavour. If it starts to blacken, lower the heat a little.
Add in this stepBoneless chicken thighs 260 gSalt 0.4 tsp
medium-high heatTurn the heat to medium heat, add the onion, celery, pepper and garlic and cook for , scraping the fond into the vegetables with their moisture, until they are tinted brown. Add the smoked paprika, cayenne, thyme, both peppers and the Worcestershire sauce and cook 30 seconds more.
Add in this stepOnion 1Celery stalks 1Green bell pepper ½Garlic cloves 3Smoked paprika 1 tspCayenne pepper ½ tspDried thyme 1 tspBlack pepper ½ tspWhite pepper ¼ tspWorcestershire sauce 1 tsp
medium heatAdd the rice and stir for 1 minute to coat it in fat. Measure 380 ml of the shrimp stock (top up with water if short) and pour it in with the andouille, the rest of the bay leaves and the rest of the salt. Boil on high heat for , stir once to the bottom, cover and cook on low heat for without lifting the lid.
Add in this stepLong-grain white rice 160 gBay leaves 1Salt 0.6 tsp
high heat→low heatLay the shrimp on top, cover again and cook on low heat for until pink and opaque.
Add in this stepRaw shell-on shrimp 160 g
low heatTurn off the heat and leave covered for . Remove the bay leaves, fold the rice gently from the bottom so the browned grains are mixed through, and finish with scallions and parsley.
Add in this stepScallions 2Flat-leaf parsley, chopped 2 tbsp
Cook's tip
The fond is the flavour, but black means bitter: stop at deep mahogany. A thin crust of rice on the bottom is prized in Louisiana. Make sure the chicken is cooked right through.
Cooking it at camp
Make the shrimp stock at home and bring it in a bottle; it saves a lot of time at camp. Sear the meat in a Dutch oven over the fire, then rake the coals down to a gentle heat for the rice.