Allgäu Three-Cheese Käsespätzle

Method

1. Mix the flour, semolina, salt and nutmeg in a bowl and add the eggs and ice-cold sparkling water. Beat hard with a wooden spoon for 5 min, until big bubbles pop on the surface and the batter hangs thickly from the spoon. The bubbles in the water make the spätzle lighter; the semolina gives them bite. Cover and rest for 30 min (fry the onions meanwhile).

   Add in this stepPlain flour 160 gDurum wheat semolina 40 gFine salt ½ tspGround nutmeg 1 pinchEggs 2Ice-cold sparkling water 45 ml

2. Slice the onions into 2 mm rings, separate them and toss in the flour, shaking off the excess. Pour the oil into a small, deep 16 cm pot (no more than a third full) and heat over medium-high heat to 170 °C; a wooden chopstick dipped in should send up a steady stream of fine bubbles. Fry the onions in batches for 4 min each, until golden, then spread on kitchen paper. Never leave hot oil unattended, keep water away from it, and if it catches fire, cover it with a lid; never use water. Turn off the heat and let the oil cool where it is.

   Add in this stepOnions (medium) 1Flour (for dusting the onions) 1 tbspSunflower oil (for frying) 300 ml

   medium-high heat

3. Bring the water and coarse salt to the boil in a large 20 cm pot, covered, over high heat; it takes about 9 min. Warm the plates in an 80 °C oven or with hot water.

   Add in this stepWater (for boiling) 2½ LCoarse salt (for the water) 1 tbsp

   high heat

4. Heat the butter in a wide 26 cm frying pan over medium-low heat for 4 min. When the foam settles, the bits on the bottom turn hazelnut brown and it smells nutty, take it off the heat at once. Black butter tastes bitter, so lift the pan off as soon as the colour starts to change quickly.

   Add in this stepButter 35 g

   medium-low heat

5. Turn the water down to medium-high heat so it simmers steadily. Spread a ladleful of batter thinly on a wet wooden board, tilt the board over the edge of the pot and scrape thin strips into the water with a wet dough scraper or the back of a knife (a press works too). Dip the knife in the boiling water each time. When they float, cook 1 min more, then lift them with a slotted spoon straight into the brown butter pan. Repeat until the batter is used up, and keep back a cup of the cooking water.

   medium-high heat

6. Set the butter pan over low heat and add the three cheeses in 3 additions, with 2 spoonfuls of cooking water each time. Toss and lift with two forks for 2 min, until the cheese melts smoothly and pulls into long strings. Grind in plenty of pepper. Stop as soon as it has melted; overheated cheese splits and turns oily.

   Add in this stepGrated Bergkäse (or aged Gruyère) 90 gGrated Emmental 60 gGrated Appenzeller (or raclette cheese) 40 gCoarsely ground black pepper to taste

   low heat

7. Heap onto the warm plates, top generously with crispy onions and chives, and serve while the cheese is still stretchy.

   Add in this stepChives, snipped 2 tbsp