Ryotei-Style Nikujaga with First Dashi

Method

1. Wipe the kombu lightly with a damp cloth and soak it in the water for 30 minutes. Set the pot on medium-low heat and warm it slowly for 10 min; when small bubbles appear around the edge, just before boiling, lift out the kombu. Let it come to a boil, turn off the heat, add the katsuobushi and leave for 2 minutes, then strain through a sieve lined with kitchen paper without pressing to get a clear first dashi.

   Add in this stepWater 500 mlKombu (dried kelp) 5 gKatsuobushi (bonito flakes) 8 g

   medium-low heat

2. Cut the potatoes into 4–5 cm pieces and shave off the sharp edges with a peeler (mentori), then soak in water for 5 minutes. Without edges they won't crumble or cloud the broth. Cut the onion into 1.5 cm wedges and the carrot into bite-size rolled chunks. Bring a small pot of water to the boil on high heat, blanch the snow peas for 1 min and plunge them into ice water to keep them green, then blanch the shirataki in the same water for 2 min, drain and cut.

   Add in this stepPotatoes (medium) 2Onion (a sweet new-season one if possible) 1Carrot 80 gSnow peas 8Shirataki noodles (konjac noodles) 100 g

   high heat

3. Heat the oil in a 18 cm pot on medium heat and stir-fry the onion, drained potatoes and carrot for 3 min, until the potato edges turn slightly translucent. Don't add the beef yet; it goes in last so it stays tender.

   Add in this stepVegetable oil 2 tsp

   medium heat

4. Pour in all the dashi from step 1, add the sake, sugar, mirin and shirataki and bring to a boil on medium-high heat, skimming off every bit of foam. Cover with a drop lid of baking paper with a few holes, turn down to medium-low heat and simmer for 12 min.

   Add in this stepCooking sake 2 tbspSugar 1 tbspMirin 2 tbsp

   medium-high heat→medium-low heat

5. Add both soy sauces, replace the drop lid and simmer on medium-low heat for 6 min more. Light soy keeps the colour clear while regular soy gives depth; that balance is the restaurant way. A skewer should slide easily into the potatoes.

   Add in this stepLight soy sauce (usukuchi) 1 tbspRegular soy sauce 1 tbsp

   medium-low heat

6. Push the vegetables to one side and add the beef slice by slice into the simmering broth. Cook on medium heat for 2 min, just until the pink disappears, then skim. Longer cooking makes the beef dry.

   Add in this stepThinly sliced beef ribeye (sukiyaki cut) 160 g

   medium heat

7. Turn off the heat and let the pot cool for 20 min so the flavours sink in. Before serving, rewarm gently on low heat for 3 min, spoon into bowls with plenty of broth and top with the snow peas, sliced on the diagonal.

   low heat