Shallot and Dried Shrimp Scallion Oil Noodles, Shanghai Noodle-Shop Style
The noodle-shop version: scallions and shallots slowly fried in oil and lard, wine-soaked dried shrimp and a rock-sugar soy glaze for deeper, rounder flavour.
Method
Put the dried shrimp in a small bowl with the Shaoxing wine and leave to soak for , turning them once. Meanwhile prepare everything else: wash the scallions, dry them completely, cut into 6 cm lengths and halve thick whites lengthwise. Peel the shallots and slice them evenly 2 mm thick so they brown at the same rate. Cut the ginger into 3 slices. Crush the rock sugar into small pieces in a bag with a rolling pin.
Add in this stepDried shrimp 15 gShaoxing rice wine 1½ tbsp
Put the oil, lard, ginger and shallots into a cold 24 cm wok, then turn the heat on to medium-low heat. Fry for , stirring often, until the shallots are evenly light golden. Lard gives the oil the rich, rounded aroma of a Shanghai noodle shop.
Add in this stepNeutral vegetable oil 80 mlLard 15 gFresh ginger 5 gShallots 2
medium-low heatAdd all the scallions, whites first and greens on top, and lower the heat to low heat. Fry gently for , turning every minute, until they are shrivelled, dark brown and crisp. Lift the shrimp out of the wine (keep the wine), and add them for the last 2 minutes. If anything starts to blacken, pull the pan off the heat at once.
Add in this stepScallions (spring onions) 100 g
low heatSet a sieve over a heatproof bowl and pour everything through. Spread the scallions, shallots and shrimp on paper towels and throw away the ginger. Return the oil to the wok, let it cool for 1 minute, then add the light and dark soy sauce, the rock sugar and the shrimp-soaking wine, standing back as it bubbles. Stir over low heat for until the sugar has completely melted and the sauce looks glossy and slightly syrupy.
Add in this stepLight soy sauce 3 tbspDark soy sauce 1 tbspRock sugar (crushed) 15 g
low heatBring 2 L of unsalted water to the boil over high heat, about . Cook the noodles for until tender but springy, loosening them with chopsticks so they do not stick.
Add in this stepThin fresh wheat noodles 240 g
high heatDrain the noodles very well and divide them between warm bowls. Spoon the soy scallion oil over them, add the white pepper and toss hard for about 30 seconds so the sauce clings to every strand. Pile the crisp scallions, shallots and shrimp on top and serve straight away.
Add in this stepGround white pepper 1 pinch
Cook's tip
Even slicing is the secret: uneven shallots burn in spots and make the oil bitter. Rock sugar gives a cleaner, rounder sweetness than white sugar; if you only have white sugar, use slightly less. Make a double batch of oil: strained and sealed, it keeps in the fridge for 2 weeks.
Cooking it at camp
Make the oil and crisp topping at home and pack them separately so the topping stays crunchy. At camp, boil the noodles in one pot and toss everything in a big bowl; warm the oil jar in the hot noodle water for a minute so the lard melts.